Showing posts with label Travelogue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travelogue. Show all posts

Monday, September 30, 2024

ये पावसा

ये पावसा मेघांचा रथ करुनी
भेटून जा तू आनंदे बरसोनी 

संकेत देई माती मृदगंध शिंपडूनी 
वाराही गाई गाणी येणार तू म्हणोनी
सृष्टीच आहे सारी तुजसाठी आतुरली 

अवघाच आसमंत जावा असा भिजुनी
बीज अंकुरावी आणिक बहरू दे वृक्षवेली
भिजल्या मनी फुलावी आशेची पल्लवी


Saturday, June 29, 2024

New England Trip - Summer 2023

Links to all photos and videos from the trip 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XqbL45Cf6DTUyyLq5

Planning

I asked my son Malhar where he wanted to go for vacation during the summer school holidays and being a history fan, he mentioned Boston. I had also planned a trip to New England states a year back, but it had not happened. So, this seemed like a good opportunity for us to do both as a road trip.

Day 1 – Jun 26 - Niagara

Though I had visited I Niagara 2-3 times before, Malhar had not so we decided to start the trip by visiting Niagara first. We started early (from Novi, MI) and arrived at Buffalo, NY in the afternoon. After checking into our hotel, we went to Niagara Falls and decided to do the Cave of the Winds self-tour first. This is a good way to explore the falls closely, walking on the boardwalk and even getting soaked (thankfully they provide plastic covers, so you are not fully drenched). We explored the area a bit after the tour and then took the Maid of the Mist boat tour. This is a thrilling experience going on the water right up to the falls and feeling the thunder and the mist on yourself. The rainbows created due to the play of mist and sunlight is another great visual treat. 

We then went for dinner at a local Mexican restaurant ‘ La Galera’ and had some delicious fajitas. Then it was time to go back to the falls to see the colors at night and to watch the fireworks. Walking on the pathway along the flowing water at night, all lit with bright colored lights and seeing the falls themselves in changing multicolor is a wonderful experience.  The fireworks were something new for me as I had not seen them in my past visits. It was quite crowded, this being close to the July 4th holiday, but we were able to view and enjoy the fireworks clearly. Then it was time to go back to the hotel and rest. 

Day 2 – Jun 27 – Drive to Boston, MA

This was an uneventful day as we spent the entire day driving from Niagara to Boston. It was raining heavily for part of the drive which slowed us down and by the time we reached the hotel it was almost past 4 pm. 

We were staying south of Boston in Quincy area and nearby there was a nature reservation area named Blue Hills. We decided to go there and had a short hike through a nature trail and then had a middle eastern dinner at a Falafel place. 


Day 3 – Jun 28 – Explore Boston

Knowing the hassles of parking and driving in Boston downtown we had decided to use the MBTA subway system, so we drove and parked in the Quincy station and took the subway metro to Boston Commons. This is the start of the Boston Freedom trail, so we took a brochure and map from the information booth and started walking the trail.

Exploring the Freedom Trail is a unique experience following the trail marked with pavers on the sidewalk and walking all over Boston downtown. We explored and visited Boston Commons, Legislative house, Granary Burial Ground, King’s Chapel, Old State House, Boston Market, Faneuil Hall, Paul Revere House, The Old North Church, and  Bunker Hill Monument. My son had read about some of these events in his history lessons and probably had more information than me. At each place we stopped and explored, reading plaques and information boards, and viewing things around. Going up the stairs at Bunker Hills Monument and looking at the surroundings from top was a nice experience. It was hot and we had walked miles, so we took a ferry back to Boston Harbor and explored the area and visited the USS Constitution Ship. 

We then went to the Boston Tea Party Museum and show. This was something Malhar was very interested in. Initially they gave us all cards with names of historical characters that we were supposed to be (I was Thomas Chase, a distiller and Malhar was Benjamin Edes, a co-publisher of the Boston Gazette!). Then there was a historical speech by a person dressed in historical costume which was a prelude to the tea party event. Then they took us to an actual replica boat where children could dump tea (just some floating resin bags tied with rope 😊). But it was enough excitement for kids and adults alike. 

Since we had all day metro pass we next went to Harvard. We walked around, exploring the area and had dinner at one busy restaurant. It was full of Harvard crowd, had a good vibe and the food was awesome. Then we made it back to our hotel, tired but satisfied.

Day 4 – Jun 29 – Plymouth, Cape Cod

Today we were visiting Cape Cod and I had booked a Whale Watching Excursion with Hyannis Whale Watcher Cruises. On the way we wanted to stop by Plymouth Rock, given its historical significance. We arrived at Plymouth rock around 9.30 am. There is a monument type structure over the rock along the shore and the year 1620 is carved on the rock. We were also pleasantly surprised to see a life-size replica of the Mayflower historic ship, which carried the Pilgrims across the Atlantic, sitting along the seashore,. It is called Mayflower II and was built in England and sailed to US in 1957. 

Then we were on our way to Cape Cod. We went straight to the cruise, checked in and got our seats on the large cruiser boat. Once started, they took us at fast speed at least 60-70 miles in the waters closer to Provincetown. There were many other boats/ cruisers where we stopped, and I guessed there is some sort of communication between all of them as to where the Whales are hanging out on any particular day. There were many whales in the water in different sizes and a lot of activity all around. There was person on the speaker giving out information and they seem to have names for most whales based on the tags and some physical features such as clipped fins. It was quite thrilling for both me and Malhar, this being our first-time watching whales so up and close. We must have been in there for more than an hour and then it was time for us to return. Once on shore we went to a nearby beach and walked on it but the tide was low and water far out. 

We then started our long 6 hrs. drive towards Bangor in ME to visit Acadia National Park next day. We arrived at our hotel around 9 pm, had a pizza for dinner and slept. 

Day 5 – Jun 30 – Acadia National Park, ME

We got in the morning and drove more than an hour’s drive to Acadia National Park. It was a bit confusing at first to get our bearings but eventually we landed at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center. The parking lot was almost full and the ranger at the visitor center advised us to take the free park shuttle instead of driving on our own, as it was very busy, and we may have had parking problems in most places. We decided to take up on it which was a wise decision. The shuttle took us to our initial stop at Sand Beach. We went on the beach first to explore. Unlike open beaches I have seen most elsewhere here it is different with a sandy beach surrounded by hills and cliffs rising on the sides. It was foggy out in the sea and the water was cold. We took a few photos then decide to come back here later after exploring other places. 

Next to Sand Beach is the Beehive Trailhead so we decided to hike the trail. My initial thought was to do part of trail then return as Malhar is not that used to hiking. However, I was surprised as he wanted to keep going even though it looked quiet challenging and steep up the mountain. The trail was very busy and there were areas near the rock scrambles where we had to wait for some slow hikers. In time though we made it to the Beehive Summit, and I was really impressed by Malhar doing it so easily (at home he is even averse to hiking flat trails at nearby State Parks). We completed the whole loop and arrived back at Sand Beach. We then walked along a pathway or flat trail going parallel to the cliffs dropping to the ocean, towards Thunder Hole. This is a natural small rocky cove where sea water rushes in with the waves and makes thundering noise while emptying out. You can view it from a platform above. From there we took the shuttle but did not stop at any stops (Otter Cliff, Jordan Pond) as we had a reservation for Cadillac Summit Road. 

After arriving at the visitor center, we drove just at our reservation time to the Cadillac Summit Road and drove up to the summit. This is a 3-mile scenic drive, and the summit is highest point in Acadia and a popular place to view Sunrise or Sunset. I hadn’t got either reservation but still wanted to go there. The views are fine but it was foggy so we really could not see much far out. We just hiked and walked around on the summit, took some photos, and turned back driving to Sand Beach again. We wanted to enjoy the beach waters, but it was cold. We still played a bit in water and Malhar had a great time. This too was a surprise as he isn’t fond of swimming or water either. We then left Acadia having had a great day altogether. 

Day 6 /7– Jul 1 – Mt. Washington, NH/ Vermont 

It was time from our journey back home, but we still had one more destination and state in mind. White Mountains in New Hampshire. We drove the 4-hr. journey from Bangor, ME to Mt. Washington Cog Railway Base Station in New Hampshire. The Cog is the first mountain-climbing cog railway in the world and the second steepest. The Cog goes up to Mt. Washington summit in the White Mountains which is the highest peak in the Northeast US. It is part of the Appalachian trail and due its unpredictive weather considered the trickiest section of the trail. 

Taking the Cog railway up to the summit is a cool and easy way than hiking up the mountain. We got our tickets and boarded one of the two railcars. The ascent up is quite steep and slow. As you progress you can observe the change in topography, with tall pine trees giving way to smaller, dwarf trees and almost no vegetation near the summit. This is due to the cold weather and the winds. Once we reached the summit we explored around in all directions. There was a long line to take photos at the Summit sign but we did that. We could see may AT hikers walking along on the trail. There is a weather station and observatory at the summit, but I don’t think we can visit it from inside.

After a stay of about an hour we did the return journey descending down. Then it was time for our long return drive home. We drove across Vermont, through the Green Mountains but we did not stop at any place. It does look scenic with lots of forested areas and trees and I am sure there are wonderful places to visit and do nature activities. But there wasn’t anything exceptional that I thought we had to visit based on what I looked up online. We drove till Utica, NY, stayed there overnight and then next day drove back home.  


Sunday, June 16, 2024

Rocky Mountain - Grand Teton - Yellowstone Trip - Summer 2023

Links to all the photos and videos from the trip 

Colorado/ Rocky Mountains - https://photos.app.goo.gl/F3AE6FUrBn3wd8sG6

Grand Teton - Yellowstone - https://photos.app.goo.gl/b65vGFhUzusbteeX8

Planning

In the past 2-3 years and especially after Covid pandemic, like most people I also caught the travel bug. I was especially enamored by the beautiful and well-preserved National Parks and after visiting Arizona and all the parks in Utah, the Mighty West just beckoned me for more. 

I still however had yet to visit Yellowstone, the ultimate National Park so to speak. It had also been almost a year since my mother’s cancer diagnosis and everything that comes with it as the primary caregiver. I had a good summer vacation with my son Malhar to Niagara and North England states, but I had a window of opportunity for a solo vacation around Labor Day weekend so decided to go ahead with this trip. Luckily, things fell in place, and I was able to visit my dream destination. 

I should thank some of the FB groups I joined where I got lot of information of the places I planned to visit, either by reading about other people’s experiences or asking questions. www.earthtrekkers.com was also extremely helpful resource with their itineraries and useful info for various places. 

Day 1 – Aug 28 – Garden of Gods


Since I could not leave my mother alone due to her health the plan was for her to stay with my nephew in OH. Hence I had booked my flights to Denver from Columbus. Mom and I drove early morning from MI to my nephew’s home and he then dropped me to the Columbus airport. By the time I arrived in Denver and took my rental car it was already past 4 pm. From there I drove to Colorado Springs. 

Garden of Gods in Colorado Springs is a wonderful red rock natural landscape with some impressive formations. Compared to much larger Arches or Bryce Canyon National Parks in Utah this place has similar red rock natural features but much smaller in size (and somewhat underwhelming if you have seen the ones in Utah before). But if you are in the vicinity it is still worth a visit. One could easily spend half a day or an entire day here, but I only had about couple of hours at most. Luckily, it was the golden hour and as I drove through, stopping at a few places to view the beautiful landscape against the stunning colors in the sky, it truly felt as if I was in the Garden of Gods. 

Day 2 – Aug 29 – Rocky Mountain National Park  


The next day I had an entry pass booked ahead for the Rocky Mountain National Park with Bear Lake Road access from 10 am to noon. Hence I started early for the 3-hr. drive from Colorado Springs to RMNP. The drive isn’t bad except when near Denver which can slow down a bit. However, I was able to make it in time and enter the park. I had heard that the Bear Lake parking lot gets full early, hence I parked at the shuttle parking and decided to take the free park shuttle instead. 

From the online FB groups, I had learned about altitude sickness and acclimatation and decided that the first day I will do some easy hikes before trying something more difficult with higher altitude. Hence I embarked on the lakes trail which includes Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, and Emerald Lake. This is just a moderate trail, with stunning views of the mountains and beautiful lakes. The lakes are of varying size, not too big, and the names don’t necessarily signify anything as far as I know. The weather was pleasant and sunny and there were lot of people on the trail. Like many folks, I ate some packed lunch at the Emerald Lake and got my first ever glimpse of a marmot which was mingling among the folks spread out on the boulders.

From Emerald Lake I turned back the way I came until arriving at a fork which leads to Lake Haiyaha. It sits at some altitude so there is a decent upwards hike to get to it. For a first day this was a strenuous one for me though nothing compared to the one I did next day. As I was climbing up I could feel light dizziness for a few seconds but nothing too severe to stop me. Lake Haiyaha is absolutely worth the effort with its still, emerald-green glacial water amid the surrounding mountains. Sitting on the rocks, admiring the beauty of it, and feeling the closeness with nature can bring a sense of calm and peace in you that you don’t even realize how much you needed in your urban grind of life. 

After returning to my car, I drove to the Old Fall River Rd. This is about a 9–10-mile one way road leading up to the Alpine Visitor Center. It’s a slow drive through a very narrow and unpaved road with sharp switchback turns and winding through thick forest and mountains. On the way you can stop by to view Chasm falls. As you reach high altitude to the end you can see snowpack and what might be remnants of past glacial activity. The Alpine visitor center was closed by the time I reached at the top, so I just walked around outside. It was quite cold and windy, and I saw a few Elks grazing (first time I was seeing Elk). 

From the Alpine Visitor center, I got onto the Trail Ridge Rd to go to Estes Park where I was staying. Trail Ridge Rd is the highest continuous paved Rd in the US with the high point near Alpine Visitor Center at 12,183 ft. It was sunset time as I started the descent from top and it was a beautiful site with the setting sun blazing orange & red while also the full or almost full moon rising on other side. I stopped at a few places to take pictures and admire it all and at one point saw a herd of elk some distance away. Farther away and as it got darker, I saw a few elk at quite close distance with the bright moon in the background. 

Back to Estes Park after settling in the hotel I realized that most restaurants were already closed for the night. I called and found one named ‘ Cousin’s Bar’ open and decided to go there for dinner. Got a good beer and a burger though I was somewhat miffed that substituting a beef patty for chicken patty cost me extra $$ for what was already a pricey burger. Welcome to a touristy, western place! It was time to settle for the night as the next day I had an early day. 

Day 3 – Aug 30 - Rocky Mountain National Park


Today I had an entry pass to the RMNP from between 5-7 am. I had booked the pass days ahead and appreciate the system as a control mechanism for the visiting crowd. I entered the park at around 6 am and first went to Sprague Lake. Near parking lot, I saw a large antlered elk grazing. In the lake itself at some distance I saw a mamma moose with her baby. The sun was just rising, and it was quite peaceful sitting there and taking it all in. 

From there I headed to the Bear Lake parking lot. Today being so early I was able to easily get parking. I had planned to do the Sky Pond hike, a popular and challenging hike and just under ten miles out and back. One of the first interesting sites on the hike, about a mile or so from the trailhead,  is Alberta Falls which is a 30-feet waterfall. There were lot of people here enjoying the views of the falls. About two miles from here I arrived at The Loch. This is a beautiful subalpine lake surrounded by mountain peaks and pine forest. The hike goes quite a length along the lake from here and thereafter the hike starts getting strenuous with altitude kicking in. 

Around four miles from the trailhead I arrived at Timberline Falls. Before arriving at the falls, you must climb a series of rocky steps which can take your breath away due to the steep climb. The fall itself was basically trickling water at the time but the climb up is a scramble through the rocks, and you must be incredibly careful to avoid a fall and injury. Once I scrambled through the rocks I arrived at Lake of Glass, a beautiful alpine lake surrounded by many peaks and among them the Sharktooth. From here I basically had to follow a few people as the trail is sketchy. Just about ½ mi from Lake of Glass I arrived at Sky Pond. Like Lake of Glass this is also a site to withhold but there is also the sense of achievement in make it so far. I spend about 30 min or so here and then turned on my way back. Comparatively the hike downhill is easier, but you are fatigued, and the day had gotten warmer. By the time I reached the trailhead and the parking lot it was almost 2 pm or so. 

On my way back to the hotel I stopped for a late lunch/dinner at Barrel Beer and Rosa’s Tacos. It felt good to drink beer sitting outside, listening to the music and eat the delicious tacos. Once I reached the hotel and had showered and changed, I just lounged on a terrace like structure at the hotel, admiring the full moon rising over the mountains. 

Day 4 – Aug 31 – Grand Teton National Park


Next day I got up around 4 am as I had an 8 hr., drive to Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. I would have driven through the night to save daytime for sightseeing but from what I read on the FB groups it’s probably unsafe with the remote roads and elk/deer on the road. It was still dark when I left Estes Park and I drove very slowly to avoid running into any animal. By the time the sun came up I had picked up speed. Driving through Wyoming could sometimes be boring as there isn’t much to see around. By the time I reached Jackson, WY it was midafternoon. The first thing I did was to pick up bear spray, which I had booked online. It is very essential here if you want to hike as its grizzly bear country and especially for me being a solo hiker. 

Jackson is just outside Grand Teton NP, so it doesn’t take long to enter the park. As you enter the park you can see the Grand Teton peaks. I stopped at the Jenny Lake Visitor Center to browse for info and get my souvenir. I recommend doing these at all National Parks as you can learn a lot about the park. From there I took a boat ride across the Jenny Lake to the other side. A short hike from the boat landing and I arrived at Hidden Falls. There were lot of people on the trail and near the falls, so I was quite comfortable. I spend some time at the falls, took some photos and was on my way to Inspiration Point. This is a short but steep hike to a location above from where you can view the whole Jenny Lake and surroundings wooded area and mountains in the park. There are some good trails further from Inspiration Point, but I did not see a lot of people going and I didn’t feel safe going alone. I turned back, returned to the boat landing, and took the return boat. 

Then I drove to Chapel of Transfiguration, a small, old, and picturesque chapel. You can take beautiful photos from inside and outside the chapel with the Grand Tetons in the background. For a lot of locations in the park the Teton peaks are a major feature in the background. Further drive up I arrived at Mormon Row. These are some long abandoned barns and probably the most photographed location in the park, especially during sunrise or sunset. The barns with the Tetons in the background and good light conditions are indeed worth the visit and photos. Then a further drive ahead I arrived at Schwabacher Landing. This place has a natural pond/stream (or the Snake River) where the Tetons are reflected in the still water. I got some great pictures here. By this time, it was late evening and I turned back towards Jackson for night stay at a hostel. 

The accommodations are quite expensive in Jackson during peak season and the hostel was the only place at reasonable cost. This was my first time staying in a hostel and it was a pleasurable experience. I showered, then spent some time in the common lounge area chatting up with a young Indian techie guy. A girl had all her things locked up in the locker and had issue opening it so there was some drama around it. I helped her by letting her use my phone to call the service person, but it took some while. I then climbed up in a small bunk which was my bedroom for the night!

Day 5 – Sep 1 – Grand Teton and Yellowstone NP


I woke up around 5-5.30 am next morning, left the hostel and arrived at the Snake River Overlook location in the park. This location is great to view the sunrise. The overlook is right across the parking lot. You can see the snake river winding down below and the Tetons farther out in the distance with the plains and hillocks in between. There was a bright moon in the sky, and I saw a moose swim across the river. With binoculars I could see some bison grazing in the distance. As it started getting lighter with the sun coming up, the Tetons, the clouds in the sky  and the surroundings started lighting up with some great photo opportunity for me. I wasn’t the only by now and there were few others, some with excellent SLR zoom cameras. I was happy with my Samsung Galaxy photos though. 

From here I drove on to Oxbow Bend which is a very picturesque location with the iconic view of Mt. Moran’s reflection in the Snake River. By now it was bright and sunny. There were some deep pink wildflowers growing on the side of the river which, in the foreground and Mt. Moran in background with the river in between, looked beautiful with another set of great photos. From here I drove on to Signal Mountain, which is a road that drives up the mountain from where you can see far out in the distance. Next I did the Jenny Lake loop which is driving loop road around Jenny Lake. Didn’t find it much exciting here. I stopped at the nearby Spring Lake hoping to take a dip in the water but there weren’t any people around outside or in the water and many bear warning signs, so I decided to skip the dip. 

It was midafternoon now and I started driving towards Yellowstone National Park and to Wapiti in the West where I was staying. I entered Yellowstone through the South Entrance and drove on to West Thumb Geyser basic. There isn’t a lot in between, but near Lewis Lake I did see some geyser activity and steam flowing up in multiple places in the distance. I also passed the Continental Divide Sign. The West Thumb geyser basin was my first clear glimpse of Yellowstone key features of hot springs. There is a nice boardwalk which loops through the different geysers and as a first timer I was sure excited by it all. From here I drove towards Wapiti stopping by briefly at the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center. Wapiti is between Yellowstone East Entrance and the town of Cody and the place I had booked was a RV Park type place. I had made this my base as I was coming from South, but I could have chosen to stay outside of West Entrance as it has much more choices of accommodation. The drive from Wapiti to Yellowstone was 1.5-2 hrs. daily but I don’t regret it as it is a beautiful drive through the mountains. I arrived around 8 pm in the RV park and found my log cabin accommodation to be great, surrounded by the plains and mountains. I freshened, ate dinner (khichadi in a rice cooker, as there aren’t any eating options close by ), and went to sleep. Now I had three days’ worth of time to explore YNP.

Day 6 – Sep 2 – Yellowstone Lower Loop



Exploring Yellowstone is basically a figure of eight, with sites along the upper loop and lower loop. For the first full day I chose to explore the lower loop. I got up around 5 am, quickly got ready and drove towards the East Entrance and Fishing Bridge. At one point along the mountain road, I saw a few cars and upon stopping saw bighorn sheep clustered on nearby cliff. I also saw bison and elk along the road at various places. From Fishing bridge, I turned right and arrived at first sight of Mud Volcano area. Here you can see many mudpots. Mudpots, hot springs, geysers and fumaroles are the different geothermal features you see in Yellowstone. The good things in all these places are that there are boardwalks winding through these features for you to safely explore. In fact, leaving the boardwalk is outright dangerous and illegal. Further away from the Mud Pots I arrived at Hayden Valley. This is a place rich in wildlife and early in morning or evening is suitable time to view them. There are a few pullout locations along the road where you can stop and view down the lush green valley. I had new binoculars for this trip, and it was especially useful to see the animals or birds in distance. I should mention that there are many different, isolated geothermal features (some named, other not) that you will see along your drive, and I am mentioning only  a few key ones here.

Much further from Hayden Valley I arrived at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone where there are the Upper Falls and Lower Falls. On the South Rim Drive you will find viewing points for both Upper Falls and Lower Falls. The Upper Falls can be seen from the Upper Fall Viewing Area and the Lower Falls can be seen from Artist Point, which is stunning, with the falls and the winding river through the colorful canyon walls on either side. The North Rim Drive is a one-way drive that took me to the Lower Falls Lookout point, which is steep hike down wooden steps, offering excellent views of the Lower Falls. Further down the road I arrived at Inspiration Point which gives another good perspective of the canyon and the falls.

It was lunchtime and I arrived at the nearby Canyon Village Visitor center and decided to try the specialty here of Huckleberry and Wildberry Ice Cream which was delicious. Then I started driving towards the Old Faithful Geyser which is probably the most popular site here. In between there are lot more geysers basins (Norris Geyser Basin, Artist Paintpot, Upper/Mid/ Lower geyser basin) and this section of the park is the most crowded. I stopped by at Artist Paintpot for a peek before arriving at Old Faithful. This place has ample parking space and the approximate geyser eruption timings are displayed so you know how long your wait will be. I waited along in large semicircular crowd of people around the geyser eagerly waiting for the eruption. As predicted and on time the geyser stated spewing white steam at first and then there was this huge spray of water flowing upwards with a loud gushing noise . It’s lasted for more than a minute before scaling down. The gasp and noise from the crowd and the claps later are worth the experience. 

Behind the Old Faithful is the Upper Geyser Basin which can be explored walking on the boardwalks. There are many geysers to see, and you can easily spend 30-45 min or more exploring the entire basin. This concluded my day one in Yellowstone, but I wanted to capture the Cody Rodeo that evening as it was the last night of the season. It’s a long drive from Old faithful to Cody and I arrived just in time when the Rodeo was starting. I am glad I made it as this was a unique experience with local WY flavor for me. Until then I had only seen rodeo actions on TV in shows like Heartland and Yellowstone. But to see the performers on horses from young boys, girls, men, and women display their talents and compete in different events in the arena under the open evening sky was just wonderful. The show lasted about couple of hours, and I drove back to Wapiti to my cabin to sleep for the night. 

Day 7 – Sep 3 – Yellowstone Upper Loop


Today I wanted to explore more of the geyser area and then do the upper loop. I arrived first at the Old Faithful Lodge and Inn which is in the Old Faithful Geyser area. This is a quite impressive and massive wood / log structure with hotel rooms, restaurants, shops etc. and worth stopping by even if you are not staying in the lodge itself. Next I explored the biscuit basin in the Upper Geyser area which is closer to Old Faithful. It was cloudy with a light drizzle but luckily I had my raincoat which didn’t stop me from exploring. Further ahead I arrived at the Grand Prismatic Spring in the Middle Geyser area. This is known for its spectacular yellow, orange colors formed due to mineral deposits. There is a short hike to the Grand Prismatic Overlook from where you get a decent view of the entire round/oval shape. Due to cloudy weather the colors weren’t standing out as brightly as I have seen in some pictures, but it still looked quite beautiful. Further on I started on a hike to Fairy Falls which is about a three mile or so round trip through some thick pine forests to the Falls. I kept at close distance to other people/ groups as I didn’t want to be alone and have an encounter with a grizzly. It was raining lightly now and the hike, though quite flat and easy can make you nervous hiking alone, especially around sharp corners and thick forest. Luckily, I arrived at the falls and made in back to my car without any incident. The fall itself is not that much impressive or at least wasn’t at the time due to less water. 

I then wanted to explore the Norris Geyser basin, but it was crowded with no parking unless you park on the road at quite some distance, and I decided to skip it. Instead, I started on the upper loop driving towards Mammoth Springs. There isn’t much in between as far as sights go here. Mammoth springs area is again a boardwalk area to explore, and it is large area to walk though and explore the whole area. I walked around quite a bit, but I found this a little underwhelming in comparison with the geysers. From Mammoth Springs I drove towards Tower Fall/ Roosevelt area and down through Dunraven Pass back towards Wapiti. There are places like Antelope Valley and many overlooks on the way but not a lot of prominent sites on this upper loop section. The drives through the high mountains and the forests are an experience though whether you are listening to some good music in your vehicle or just driving around with windows rolled down catching the wind and keep your eyes open for the slightest glimpse of a wildlife activity. 

Day 8 – Sep 4 – Lamar Valley, Chief Joseph and Beartooth Hwy


I had viewed majority of the sites along both loops in Yellowstone. The major one remaining for me was Lamar Valley on the Northeast side. Lamar Valley is supposedly the best place to see wildlife in Yellowstone. So today I had decided to visit that section, entering through the NE Entrance. I got up early and drove west from Wapiti towards Cody and then got onto the Chief Joseph hwy. This highway connects Cody to the Bear Tooth Highway in the North. Both these highways are quite scenic, so I had decided to drive along on these since I had time. The drive, starting early dawn, was perfect however there are many open ranges along this Hwy so you need to be watchful of the cattle along or on the road. Once the Joseph Hwy meets Beartooth Hwy you need to drive West to enter Yellowstone. This section of the park, entering  through the Northeast Entrance is thickly forested with fog and mist covered mountains presenting a very scenic view. Entering Lamar Valley, the drive can become slow as I saw groups of people at different pullouts along the road with long binoculars and expecting to catch a glimpse of wildlife you stop as well. I also encountered ‘bison jams’ which is very typical here. I stopped at many places and scouted with my binoculars but other than a coyote did not get to see the famous residents of Yellowstone – the grizzly or the wolves. I may have spent about 2-3 hours in Lamar Valley driving up to the Tower Roosevelt junction and then turned back. 

My next destination was Red Lodge, Montana though it wasn’t the destination but the drive on the Beartooth Scenic highway that was my primary goal. This is dubbed one of the most beautiful roads in USA, but it is closed during the winter months due to heavy snow. Luckily, it was open when I was there, and the drive was spectacular going through different terrains and reaching altitudes of almost 11000 ft. There are numerous places to pull out and view the spectacular natural beauty. At Red Lodge I stopped by for lunch, the started driving back to Cody driving on a different route which took me through the Wind River Reservation. It’s hard to describe the experience on these drives as there aren’t exact named sites as such to pinpoint everywhere but the entire area and driving experience is something worth the experience. In fact, for anyone visiting Yellowstone I would recommend that they experience and enjoy these mountainous and scenic drives in and out of the park. 

Day 9 – Sep 5 – Return Back

This was my last day of the trip and nothing much exciting worth mentioning as I drove back the long drive to Denver to catch my flight back home. The only exciting thing (a bummer for me ) was a traffic ticket I got somewhere in rural Wyoming. Not much regrets though. Per my assessment Wyoming is at the same time the most underwhelming and most overwhelming state in the USA. 

Saturday, June 1, 2024

South California Trip – March 2024

Links to all the photos and videos from the trip

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AuN85QtHHX9UPe8Q6



I was excited about this trip as it's the first time in 26 yrs in the US that I was visiting California. My plan was to arrive in Las Vegas, then do a clockwise loop covering three National Parks and part of the Pacific Coast Hwy up to Monterey/ Big Sur. After arriving in LV, I had an Indian lunch buffet and then headed towards the town of Twentynine Springs where I was staying. From there the North entrance to Joshua Tree National Park is close so that became my entry point. 

Day 1 - 3/24 -  Joshua Tree National Park


Since I was a bit under the weather I slept later than usually I do on these trips and had a great breakfast at John's Place. It was almost 9 am when I entered the park. My first stop was Skull Rock on Park Boulevard as it's one of the most visited location and parking could have become a hassle later. 
 

SKULL Rock is an amazing natural rock formation in shape of what the name suggests. Quite something. There is a short Discovery trail near it which isn't too hard. My second stop was SPLIT Rock. As the name suggest it's a huge rock which is split in two. Not as exciting as other visiting points. Then I backed up the road and went towards Pinto Basin Rd towards HEART and ARCH Rock. This is moderate trail, part flat ground and part through rocks. The Heart shaped rock is a photo favorite. The ARCH Rock could easily be missed but the trail through the rocks is exciting.  

From there I headed on the same road to Cholla Cactus garden. In JTNP two deserts meet, the Mojave Desert and Colorado desert. As you near the Cholla Cactus garden you suddenly notice the change in topography, from mostly Joshua trees to mostly Cholla Cactus shrubs. It is quite abrupt if you are noticing. There is a short trail in the garden that winds among the cactuses. Most of them had early blooms but it was still cold for full blooms. Just a little ahead is Ocotillo Patch named after the unique thorny, spiky trees they grow here. They have red/ pinkish blooms. I saw lot more Ocotillo trees/shrubs in other parts in my trips than I saw here. 

Then I headed back up to Park Boulevard Rd which is where most attractions are. Since I had already visited Skull Rock I went past it toward CAPS Rock. As the name suggests there is a huge cap like rock sitting atop huge boulders. There is short easy trail around it. On most of these trails there are plaques with great information about the flora, fauna, geology in this area and this byte sized info is worth a read. Then I visited Keys View which is basically a drive uphill and from a parking lot a short walk atop from where there is amazing view all over. On hazy days one may not be able to see far but luckily it was quite clear when I visited.  

My next stop was Hidden Valley trail which is amazing. It’s a bowl like area sitting in midst of huge rocky hills. You can walk an easy loop trail. This is favorite of rock climbers, and I saw lot of them going up or down making your heart churn. This trail is a must do. Next stop was Barker Dam trail. The trail is easy, but dam is just a tiny dam built by ranchers in old days. There is no more ranching here thanks to shortage of rainfall. 

Lastly I visited Hall of Horrors. This one disappointed me as there are no clear signs as to what to look for. I got couple of pictures of a slot canyon like formation but if there is more to it then I surely missed it.  

Day 2 - 3/25 – Anza Borrego State Park / San Diego

I left Twentynine Springs early to drive to San Diego. On the way I had a slight diversion to visit Anza Borrego State Park which is known for its wildflower blooms, and this was the right time of the year. The route took me through JTNP way past the Cholla Cactus garden. Part of it was state or county roads while part highway. I passed through Salton Sea and a place called Mecca. I saw a lot of agricultural activity in the area. Salton Sea has an interesting history that I Googled later. 

As I entered Anza Borrego Park I stopped at couple of places where there were crowd of people looking at a great display of mostly reddish pink wildflowers. A stroll and few pictures and I was on my way. The actual destination point of the park has a garden like feature with desert flowers and wildflowers that you can stroll through. It was interesting though some of the spectacular photo displays I have seen online was nowhere to be seen. Maybe it wasn’t time yet or had already passed. Yet, the segway was worth it. 

From thereon I proceeded to drive to San Diego. The first place I went to was Mission Beach which has ample public parking space. It was good to walk around on the beach, on a rock pier and seeing lot of surfers. The water was too cold for me to enter in. Then I proceeded to Cabrillo National Monument. This is kind of on a hill with a lighthouse from where you can see the sea all around and the city of San Diego spread wide across. On the way you pass a lot of war graves which is a sobering experience. You can also drive down closer to the shoreline and explore tide pools. However, it closes quite early in the day 4.30/5 pm and I was disappointed to not have time to explore. 

Later I checked into my hotel and for dinner decided to explore the Gaslamp Quarter area. Due to weekday, it wasn’t as crowded though finding parking was still a hassle. I walked around a bit and ate at a restaurant ‘La Puerta’ trying out some tacos with a margarita. Good food but expensive (guess most of CA is expensive for a Midwesterner). Back to hotel and it was time to turn in for the night. 

Day 3 - 3/26 – San Diego

Next day I went to breakfast at CAFÉ 222 in downtown. It was a place I had read about online. In these days of social media, where anybody and everybody is a travel reviewer you can get thousands of varied recommendations on food and other places to visit. This was one such place. I ordered a Blueberry Corn Muffin with butter and Coffee for $25, once again reminding me that CA is expensive. 

I then headed to Balboa Park in the city center. It’s a large urban park which has many museums and interesting things to explore. I had no definite plans to see anything in particular but when I entered and started strolling through the park I saw a large queue near the Japanese Garden of Friendship. I bought a day pass online which offers entry to 4 museums and got in line to enter the Japanese garden. It was worth the visit with beautifully sculpted gardens, ponds with fish and other features. The cherry trees section was exceptionally beautiful with 95% bloom (as per a display board). For anyone visiting Balboa Park I would recommend visiting this garden. Next I explored San Diego Institute of Arts museum. Having visited the Detroit Institute of Arts in my hometown this one seemed comparatively smaller in scope and exhibits. Air and Space Museum is another one I would recommend. The exhibits with models of beginning of flights, displays from World War I and II, commercial flights etc.  was very interesting and informative. Finally, I visited the Mingei museum with mostly contemporary art. In between I strolled through various gardens and buildings and the whole day was fulfilling. 

In the evening I met a friend’s son who recently came here from Pune to do his Masters at USC. We met at a local pizzeria and spent couple of hours just chatting up about college, student life, careers, and stuff. 

Day 4 - 3/27 – Pacific Coast Hwy/ Los Angelos

Leaving my hotel in morning I drove towards Dana Point which is where the Pacific Coast Hwy 1 begins. I have wanted to do this for a while. You may vision this as a typical highway where you can drive at high speed but in reality this is quite a busy road with towns, homes, shops, traffic lights along the way. While you are driving parallel along the Pacific Ocean you don’t always get a glimpse of it except occasionally. 

My first destination was Huntingtin Beach. It’s a nice beach, with a pier you can walk on and lot of surfers all around. The water was cold, so I didn’t swim in the water but did wade in knee deep. I spent about 1-1.5 hrs. here then moved on to my destination which was Los Angelos. I had to leave the PCH to go to LA and I arrived in early afternoon, with my first destination being the Hollywood Walk of Fame. It’s a typical downtown walk along the sidewalk except the stars all along the walk with names of movie folks. I saw a lot of recognizable names (Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Ronald Reagan, Liz Taylor) and many we don’t know. 

From there I headed to the Griffith Park and the Observatory. In the park I ate my packed lunch in one shade tree area and then went to the Observatory. Right from outside the observatory you can see the famous Hollywood Sign. Inside the observatory there is a lot to see around and learn about astronomy with general admission, but I did not have time to catch the paid shows/ movies. You can easily spend half a day or entire day here. From there I went to my hotel and just had carryout dinner from a nearby Thai restaurant. One interesting fact I saw in the restaurant was old Thai movie posters which looked exactly like old Hindi/ Indian movie posters from the 60s/70s. 

Day 5 - 3/28 – Monterey

Though I wanted to drive via Hwy 1 all the way to Monterey it wasn’t possible to do so as there was a stretch of road in between closed for construction. Hence the next day I drove through Malibu and Santa Barbara then took a detour through Solvang, San Luis Obispu to Monterey. The drive was fine but nothing worth stopping and seeing. My first stop after reaching Monterey though unplanned, was the 17-mile drive at Pebble Beach. This is a famous drive through lot of (expensive) residential area with multiple stops along the ocean. Some of stops which I found interesting were the Restless Sea, Bird Rock, Cypress Point Overlook, and the iconic Lone Cypress. There is also the famous golf course right along the sea and it was amusing to see couple of golfers taking a swing with the waves crashing in the background. After exiting Pebble Beach, I headed to my hotel in Seaside, Monterey. 

Day 6 - 3/29 – Big Sur

I got up early morning next day to drive south on the Hwy 1 in area known as Big Sur. One of my first stops was the Bixby Bridge, a photo op place. The high bridge and ocean below with crashing waves is indeed a great site. I took a few photos from location a bit farther from the bridge, but I was able to explore more and take more photos on my way back later in the afternoon. Further along the road there is a famous restaurant named Nepenthe with beautiful ocean view. I had checked the menu prices and found them exorbitantly high. I didn’t mind stopping along on one of the numerous stunning viewpoints along the road and eat a packed lunch in solitude. 

There are multiple State Parks all next to each other as you drive through along on this road – Garrapata SP, Andrew Molera SP, Pfeiffer Big Sur SP and Julia Pfeiffer Burns SP. I drove all the way to Julia Burns SP to McWay Falls. It’s a very short hike and you can see the falls with water falling onto a beach from a distance. I think there is a way to go up to the falls on the beach, but the road was closed due to some damage. A short driving distance away I went to Partington Cove which is a hike downhill to a cove (a small inlet or bay) where you can experience the crashing ocean waves up close. From there I drove all the way back to Point Lobos Natural Preserve, stopping along many times at different viewpoints of the ocean. 

At Point Lobos I hiked through what is known as Cypress Grove which winds through a cypress trees. At one point along where you can see the drop to the ocean, the wind was so fierce that it was hard to keep my balance. This is definitely a nice place to stroll through. From there I went to Pacific Grove, driving along on my way through Carmel by Sea. It was too crowded with no parking place and either way I wasn’t much interested in shopping or eating. By the time I reached my hotel it was raining heavily, and it rained through the night. The next day I left the area but came to know couple of days later that part of the Hwy 1 on Big Sur collapsed into the ocean, so the road was closed, and many tourists were made to leave/ escorted from the area and State Parks. Guess I was lucky to have experienced the drive and the views by just a nick of a time. 

Day 7 - 3/30Pinnacles National Park

This park is just about 1.5 hr. drive from Monterey. I arrived here by about 9.30 am. This isn’t a very popular park compared to some other NPs in California. The unique feature of this park is the soaring, wild condors as part of the California Condors recovery program. 

I entered though the East entrance and headed towards the Bear Gulch trailhead. I had to park at a distance and walk a bit to the trailhead. This trail leads you to the Bear Gulch Talus Cave. The cave was open (it is closed certain times of year based on Bat activity). The trail is quite flat and easy. The caves require you to have a flashlight as certain parts are quite dark. I had read ahead and hence carried a flashlight. I went some distance into the cave and then turned back. There are narrow stairs, dark compact places and heavy water rushing through in an indoor waterfall as it had rained earlier. After coming back to trailhead, I started on the Condor Gulch Trail. This could be a moderate 1.5/2-mile hike, or a strenuous longer 5/6-mile hike based on how far you want to go. I did the moderate hike until the Condor Gulch. With binoculars I was able to see couple of condors soaring high above and landing on some cliffs, but they were too far to get any good pics. 

On the way out I stopped at the camp store to get a park souvenir. Then I exited the park driving towards my next destination of Death Valley but stopping for the night in the town of Bakersfield. 

Day 8 - 3/31Death Valley National Park

I left Bakersfield after an early breakfast driving towards my next destination of Death Valley Park. Its little over 200 miles / 4.5 hrs. of drive. I drove South for some distance then turned direction driving Northeast. Essentially we are driving around the mountain range and the effect of rain shadow is very much visible here. The drive down south on the west side of mountain range is fertile, green region while drive North on the east side you see the barren land in the rain shadow eventually resulting in the desert of Death Valley. On the way I saw large patches of yellow wildflowers, in some places stretched out over long distance with snow peaked mountains in the far distance. I stopped at couple of such places to take photos. Past lunch time I entered Death Valley taking the cursory photo at the park entrance. 

My first stop after entering the park was at the Furnace Creek Visitor center. There are excellent displays here and lot of info about the park with its history, geography, and biological features. From there I proceeded to Zabriskie point. A short hike up from the parking lot here you can see around quite afar with a colorful terrain. Next I headed to Badwater Basin which is the lowest point in US. Typically, this is a just a flat land with salt deposits. However due to lot of rains here recently, there was almost a knee-deep water forming a large temporary lake, which is quite a rarity. Some distance away I stopped at Devil’s Golf Course which again is a large flat land with sharp salt crystals spread across. My next stop was Artist Drive where you drive through a series of colorful hillocks. The colors are due to different minerals and depending on the light conditions this is quite a picturesque area. Then I went back to Zabriskie point to see the sunset, but it was cloudy so couldn’t catch any sunset.  

Then I had to drive almost couple of hours back towards Panamint Springs where I had night accommodation at a ‘resort’. It was basically sleeping in a tent but there aren’t many places to stay here. Thankfully they had a restaurant where I could get some dinner. That night it rained heavily, which considering that I was in a place in the US where rain is very scarce, was a rare event. And I could feel the pain of it the next day. 

Day 9 - 4/1 – Death Valley National Park

I got up at first light the next day and started driving back towards the park to cover the rest of the sights I wanted to see before proceeding to Las Vegas to catch my flight the next day. As I started driving I realized the havoc the rain had caused. In many places there were gravel, large rocks and mud washed over the road making the drive not just slow but also tricky. I kept driving slowly, making way through though I was skeptical and worried of having a flat tire in the middle of nowhere with no way of communication to call for any help. At a high elevation pass I saw a young lady with a stalled car. I stopped to ask for any help and learned that she had driven over a large rock causing problems. The only help I could offer was to assure that I can tell someone at the next ranger station almost 20 miles away to send for any help. Thankfully there was a ranger car which just came by (they may have anticipated such issues and were patrolling is my guess) and the ranger offered to call for help for her. I hope she got by ok, but this is the hazardous part of traveling in such remote places.

Further down I encountered a much worse road situation and stopped to think over my options. It was risky driving over not knowing what lay further, while the situation going back was no better but at least known. I asked someone who had driven from the other side, and they said it was ok. So, I decided to take the risk and drove over a mess of rocks, mud, and sand. My luck must be strong as I was able to get through without issues and soon I was at the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. I have been to sand dunes in MI and CO, so I spent just a short time here not going much farther in the dunes. From there I went over to the ruins of Harmony Borax Works which was a commercial enterprise in the days back but long abandoned. Nothing much exciting except for the history of it. My last stop was the Golden Canyon Trail. This was a great trail winding through yellow/gold canyon walls on both sides until you reach a place with red rock canyon called Red Cathedral. I went a bit farther in the Red Cathedral area then turned back. By the time I was at the parking lot it was around 2 pm and I started my drive to Las Vegas for a night halt. 

In summary, Death Valley is spread across a vast area with a few interesting sites. It isn’t as awe inspiring as say Arches or Zion or Rocky Mountains but has its unique features . And being so close to Las Vegas it is worth at least a day trip if you are in the area.

Return Back 

4/2 – This was the end of my trip as I took the flight back from Las Vegas to Detroit. All went as planned so I was glad about the trip. Now that I have covered south California, I am excited to plan another trip soon to explore North California.

Saturday, June 11, 2022

Colorado-Utah Road Trip - Spring 2022

 

Link to all photos & videos from the trip

Planning

For all the convenience, luxury and time saving of travel by air, it just doesn’t generate the same excitement as a road trip. Whether traveling with family, friends or solo, a road trip could provide you with a way to connect, destress or meditate. 

I have been wanting to take an extended road trip somewhere for a while, where you don't necessarily have a solid plan but only a loose and open one. Plan as you go, take it in your stride kind of thing. While I have had many enjoyable road trips with family and friends over the years, they have never extended beyond a week at most and had to be planned in terms of accommodation, activities etc.  

In 2021, while coming out of the worst of Covid and its losses in general and at personal level, I wanted an outlet. Which made me dare take a short 5-day trip to Virginia and West Virginia. It was an enjoyable and learning experience for me. I drove through the nights, slept in the car, camped, strolled on the beach, dipped in the ocean, hiked in national parks, thrilled in white water rafting. And without known company, it was easier to connect with strangers, however briefly.  

After a trip I took in Dec, 2021 with a friend to Grand Canyon National Park and Zion National Park, I very much wanted to visit Utah again to cover the other NPs. The hiking I did in Grand Canyon and Zion not only gave me confidence but sparked a desire in me to do more. And thus formed an epic trip in Spring of 2022. 

The duration of trip I planned for was about 10-11 days and included national parks in Colorado (3) and Utah (4) with a stopover in St. Louis for 1 more. I knew it would be hard to coordinate such a long trip with anyone due to conflicts with work and other priorities in life. The timing I picked was convenient for me but not necessarily for others. Plus, I specifically wanted it to be a road trip from MI to UT which increased the duration by almost 3-4 days. The reasons were twofold - monetary and experience. In the end it was rewarding in both aspects.

I did research and planned for the trip in terms of looking up information about each NP, the major things to see, hikes to do and tips from other travelers which was very helpful when I was there. I did distance calculations and mapped the route and sequence of where and when I will be on which days. Just a week before I booked a hotel in Durango, CO, a campsite near Arches NP and a hotel resort near Bryce Canyon. This took care of my accommodations and kind of locked in my sightseeing itinerary. Considering that gas prices were high (thanks to general inflation and the war) I even wrote down average gas prices state wise through which I was traveling. It may seem farfetched but there were instances when just crossing the state border could make quite a difference if you are fully filling the gas tank. I was relying on my 10 yr. old 2013 Ford Explorer for the trip, and it thankfully it supported me well with no issues.  

Day 1 - 3/25 – Gateway Arch NP

I started from home on the evening of Thurs Mar 24. Plan was to reach St. Louis by morning, a drive of just over 500 miles. I had booked a trolley tour at the Gateway Arch National Park that morning and riverboat tour for noon. It was a good, easy drive through the night, listening to songs and an audio novel. You can only listen to so many songs or so much news and I am not much into listening to podcasts or inspirational audios. A good fiction audio book though can keep you engaged for long time.  

After taking stop at a rest area for few hours I was in my pre-booked parking lot in downtown St Louis by 7 am. Even at home I am not a heavy 8 hr. sleeper and outside the comfort of a home bed I am an even light sleeper. In my opinion a body knows what it needs and will adjust and demand it, so I usually am not too worried. Still, I do make sure to do frequent stops for resting and short naps on long drives. From safety perspective I make sure I am in a well-lit rest area with decent traffic. You can never be too cautious when away from the comfort zone of your home base.  

Foodwise too, on such trips I am not picky about having regular meals as such. I had snacks and food items from home - parathas and other food items, energy bars, Indian snack items, nuts etc. Some croissants, a pack of Good Day biscuits and a bottle of raspberry jam served me well as breakfast and dessert few times. Searching and stopping for food takes away time plus what’s the point of eating and spending on same old McDonald’s or Subway. I rather prefer to experience any special local foods & drinks or eateries. 

Since I had couple of hours before my tour I strolled casually around the Gateway Arch, along the Mississippi riverfront, taking in the scenery as the sun was rising clicking pictures. Once the park opened, I headed straight to my trolley tour. A set of walkways and instructions and I was heading up in the trolley to the top of the arch. From outside it would be hard to imagine that you can travel all the way up through the narrow arch. The trolley itself is very constricted like sitting in an airplane bathroom and takes about 4 min to go up. Once up, there is a narrow platform with windows on either side to peek through and look at the city and river view below. It is quite something to marvel at from such a vantage point and totally worth it. You get about 10 min to stay up before heading down again for a 3 min journey.  

Now I had another couple hours before my river cruise which was well spent in the Gateway Arch Museum. There are lot of debates on whether the Gateway Arch should be a national monument instead of a national park.  Whether you agree or disagree the museum gives context and lot of great info on the significance of St Louis in the expansion of the western frontier. My time was well spent engrossed in learning a lot on the subject in the museum. The idea, conceptualization and building of the arch is also quite interesting to see and read about.  

From there I headed to onboard on my riverboat, aptly named Tom Sawyer. An hour-long cruise on the mighty Mississippi with guided audio from the boat captain/ guide was quite informative. Those who have read Mark Twain can't but remember Tom and his friend Huckleberry on this same river. It is a major industrial waterway and we saw many barges with cargo floating around or being tugged away. After disembarking from the boat, I walked around for some time in the downtown and had a quick bite for lunch. I searched online for any special eateries but didn’t find anything that was unmissable (lot of steak or barbecue places for those who like it).  

After a successful first checkmark on my itinerary (or Shri Ganesha as we call it) it was time to head to my next stop to CO, a drive of over 900 miles. It was about 3 pm in afternoon and it would be next morning to reach where I was headed next. I had to cut across from east to west through Missouri and Kansas states before entering CO. I drove through the afternoon and evening before tiredness set in. Then there were multiple rest stops through the night as I pushed through. By sunrise I was in CO driving through the San Luis valley in Alamosa County. The weather was crisp and clear with blue skies and already I could feel the vastness of the western landscape. Soon I would reach my next destination, Great Sand Dunes National Park. 

Day 2 – 3/26 – Great Sand Dunes & Black Canyon of Gunnison


Living in Michigan I am not new to sand dunes. Up near Traverse City we have Sleeping Bear sand dunes which are impressive. The sand dunes at Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado however carry the distinction of being the tallest in North America.  

I arrived there in the morning around 8.30-9 am. From the parking lot you can get right onto the flat sand and a short walk leads to the dune climb. Walking on sand is not an easy task. Every step is sinking in and pulling out, lot harder on your knees, feet and can quickly put you out of breadth. It could be even dangerous in hot weather as sand could heat up well above 100 degrees.  

As I climbed up, I could see people in the far distance all over the dunes, some at the very top. Looking around, you can see the Sangre de Cristo Mountains with trees and shrubs and wonder why the massive dunes of over 30 sq miles sit in the middle of it. Geologically it happened over long time due to sediments, lakes that receded and dried over time and the unique wind patterns of the San Luis valley. Pretty impressive indeed! 

Apart from walking on the dunes, sandboarding is another favorite activity to do here. Lot of small kids and youngsters were having fun with it. Later in spring the melting snow from the mountains fill the Medano creek at the bottom of dunes and visitors must cross the shallow waters to reach the dunes from the parking lot. It is another fun activity but there wasn’t any water when I was there. There are couple of hikes in nearby forest area but the main activity here is the sand dunes. After giving some thought I decided to visit another national park instead of spending all day on the dunes. It was on my list and at distance of 200 miles, but it was just noon, so I had lot of time on hand.  

It may seem like lot of driving from one point of interest to another, but when you are in a new place everything is a new experience. The drive wasn’t all major highway, in fact many smaller roads winding through mountains and open spaces. Taking it all in leisurely I was at the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park in about 3 hrs. The highlight here is the steep dark gorge carved by the Gunnison River. I read somewhere that the black signifies parts of the gorge which never see sunlight. There are roads and trails around the rim and some hiking into the gorge as well. 

I was hoping to drive around the rim, pull into some lookout points, take pictures. I wasn’t keen on hiking down another canyon (after my recent Grand Canyon hike). Unfortunately, the roads were closed for some ski or other sport tryouts. So, all I could do was walk a bit around the rim near the visitor center and take a few pictures. I was somewhat disappointed but not in a major way. This Park was a 'maybe' on my list and at least I got to be there. In some ways it turned out to be a blessing based on what was in store for me next. 

I had put my next stop, which was a hotel in Durango, CO based on its proximity to my next NP on the itinerary. I put the address on the Google maps and started driving. Heading out from the town of Montrose I jumped on to US 550 and had a drive of a lifetime on the Million Dollar Hwy. Of course, I had no idea it was called that at the time. All I realized was that I was driving through the scenic San Juan mountains which were mostly snow covered then, on a narrow two-lane bidirectional road, with lots of switchbacks and turns, steep drops with no guardrails, lots of avalanche signs and sometimes ice that had slid down the road from the slopes. 

It’s my habit on these trips to take pictures and even videos as we drive by. However, for the  toughest part of the highway I was more tied up firmly gripping the steering wheel, ensuring I wasn't going down the steeps or crashing onto oncoming vehicles. However, there were moments to capture and enjoy, and even sing "Yeh parbaton ke dayre yeh sham ka dhua" as the setting sun lit up the snow-covered mountain tops in golden colors while partially hiding the slopes in the long shadows of trees. I couldn't have planned the season and drivetime better. It’s true that some of the best things in life just happen by chance.  

I reached my hotel in Durango and the first thing I did was to look up what the heck I drove through and that's when I realized the name and significance of the highway. All in all, I was in high spirits, having a great second day of my trip, going better than planned and in good luck weather-wise. After a drink (or two) of some bourbon and dinner, watching TV, making phone calls, and browsing through messages etc. it was time to turn in for the day. 


Day 3 – 3/27 – Mesa Verde NP

Durango is a small town in Colorado with access to lot of outdoor activities such as hiking, skiing etc. The next park on my itinerary was Mesa Verde National Park which is just under an hour drive from Durango. From what I had read it isn’t a highly visited park and I also wouldn’t need the whole day for me to see the park. So, I wasn’t in a hurry. 

The day earlier I asked at the hotel desk what all is there to do nearby. I was referred to a river trail just across, so I decided to go there for a morning stroll. The Animas River trial is a decent walking, mostly paved, trail alongside the Animas River. I walked leisurely for about an hour as other people walked or jogged, a father and son fished, an energetic dog having fun in and out of the water. Then I headed back for some breakfast, check out and was on my way to Mesa Verde National Park.

Located in southwest Colorado, this park is established primarily to preserve the archaeological and cultural artifacts of the ancestral Puebloan people. About 1500 years ago, long before Europeans explored North America a group of people living in the four corners region chose Mesa Verde for their home. They began building homes (cliff dwellings are highlights here) and farming. Corn played a major role in their lives not just for food but also in their cultural life. After living there for about 750 years they moved away for various reasons leaving behind their signs and heritage.

A primary stop at the visitor center, provided all this good info to me on the history of the Pueblo people. I want to mention a couple of things here about National Park visits. The 'America the Beautiful' NP annual pass is worth it if you visit even 2-3 parks a year (and even if none just as support to the amazing natural preserved treasures in our country). Also, I always visit the visitor center for a souvenir (magnets mostly for me), free maps and information on display or from rangers which is helpful when you go through the park. 

From the visitor center I started driving to the top of the mesa where there are few loop roads that take you to different sights and overlooks. Cliff palace, Spruce tree house, Chapin Mesa, Sun Temple are some of the must-see sights here. The Cliff palace is the largest cliff dwellings in North America. There are guided tours which take you in for a closer look, but they hadn’t started as I was early in the season. You can see them quite clearly though from certain overlook points and binoculars can help you view lot of details. I also did the Upper Petroglyph trail which winds through a juniper forest and has panoramic canyon views plus several rock carvings.

After spending about 5-6 hours in the park I headed out to my next destination in Utah near Moab, Arches National Park. It was about 2.5 hrs. easy drive and coming closer I could already see some of the red rock formations. I had booked a tent campsite at Sun Outdoors campground, and it was a decent site surrounded by the red mountains. It was just about 3 miles from Arches NP and around 5.30 pm when I arrived. 

I was too eager to visit Arches and the fact that one of the most famous arches, Delicate Arch, is recommended to be viewed at sunset seemed like a chance I should take. So, there I was driving into the park, taking the customary pic at the entrance, then driving up the steep hill and entering a different world. For anyone coming first time to Arches it feels outwardly. I already had my phone out, taking pictures and recording though I wanted to reach the parking lot soon. From the parking lot its about 1.5-2 miles hike to the arch itself but it is highly deceiving. The climb is steep and, in a rush, to be there before sunset it was a hefty, strenuous hike for me. 

I did make it though and it was totally worth it. There were lot of people there already and the setting was gorgeous. The evening sky was in various hues of blue, orange, red, gold, purple forming a fitting backdrop to the unique arch. Writing and describing it is one thing but I am glad I have it visually captured on camera as well. Unfortunately, I could not stay longer as the sun had already set and it was getting dark fast. The trail wasn’t very well marked, and I didn’t want to be walking alone in dark and get lost or break an ankle. Luckily, I was able to do the opening of my Christmas gift from my daughter, a great headlamp and put it to good use. Since everyone was also heading back to the parking I was in good company. 

Back to the campsite, after setting up the tent, taking a long shower, having dinner, and then sitting relaxed on my camp chair somewhat late into night I looked forward to spending the full next day exploring Arches. 


Day 4 - 3/28 -Arches NP

I woke up early that day as I did not want to take any chances of delays entering the Arches National Park or finding parking. I was at the park entrance before 7.30 am and while it wasn’t hard to get in, I could see many cars rolling in around that time.

Per their website description Arches National Park has “over 2000 natural stone arches, hundreds of soaring pinnacles, massive rock fins, and giant balanced rocks. This red-rock wonderland will amaze you with its formations, refresh you with its trails, and inspire you with its sunsets”

I drove on towards the end of the park scenic drive to the Devil's Garden trailhead. From here you can hike on a trail to see multiple arches. I parked, got ready with my backpack, and started walking. Just a short distance from the trailhead there are two arches, the Tunnel arch and Pine tree arch. Less than a mile ahead you come to the Landscape arch which is the longest arches anywhere on earth. Part of it collapsed few years back so you cannot go close to or under the arch (there used to be trail from under). A viewing platform gives a great view of this wonderful arch.

From thereon forwards the trail gets harder with a steep rock scramble and then some hiking through the rocks at the top with amazing surrounding views of the red rocks formations. There are multiple short mini hikes on the side to different arches (Partition Arch, Navajo Arch, Wall arch). About a mile and half from Landscape arch you come to the Double O Arch. It is what the name suggests and worth more than a wonderful picture. Though a picture is a good keepsake for memories. In all these places someone is always willing to take your photo and the unwritten rule is that you should do the same in a pay it forward fashion.

I proceeded ahead to Dark Angel pinnacle which essentially is a tall dark rock and the name reminded me of Dexter. Coming back, somehow instead of following the regular trail that I took while coming, I went on sideways on the primitive loop trail. This trail is difficult with steep slopes, narrow drop-offs, and rock scrambling. I was thankful for wearing decent hiking shoes on these rock scrambles and having enough water with me. There are just a couple of arches on this trail such as the Private arch. The hike was strenuous and by the time I reached back to my car I had covered more than 7 miles in just over 5 hrs.

After some lunch I started driving on the scenic drive, coming backwards towards the park entrance while stopping on multiple other points of interest such as Skyline Arch, Sand Dune Arch, Fiery Furnace, Balanced Rock and Windows trail with the Parade of Elephants. Each of these are unique and worth a look. Overall, I had walked more than 13 miles so far and I was glad that I had covered the Delicate Arch the day before. After a brief stop at the visitor center for a browse and souvenir purchase, I was out of the park by about 5 pm.

Back to my campsite, after a good shower I felt refreshed and since it was too early in the evening I decided to hang out and have dinner in Moab. It’s a small travel town with a main arterial highway road, with many hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops and outdoor activity/ excursion places. It was buzzing with activity with many people strolling on the roads or shopping in the souvenir shops. I walked around a bit then had pizza and a beer at the Zax Restaurant.

Back to the campsite the weather forecast had some wind and rain at night, so I decided to just sleep in the car instead of taking my chances in the small tent. With the back seats laid flat there is enough room for a person to lay a sleeping bag and comfortably sleep in the car. Laying down I looked forward to exploring Canyonlands National Park next day.


Day 5 - 3/29 – Canyonlands NP

Arches and Canyonlands National Park are just about 25 miles from each other. Canyonlands is the largest park in Utah, and it is divided into 4 different areas by the Green and Colorado rivers - Island in the sky, The Needles, The Maze, and the rivers themselves. Needles and mainly Maze is all rough terrain and require high clearance 4-wheel drives. Also, though they all appear close on map there are no roads that directly link these areas. Traveling between them requires 2 to 6 hrs. by car as there are few places to cross the rivers.

My plan was to visit Island in the Sky area which is what most visitors visit. It had rained quite a bit at night but when I woke up it had stopped, and the sky was just a little cloudy. I got ready, made instant tea and upma (from a ready mix my mom had prepared) on a small camping stove, ate and was on my way to Canyonlands. There wasn’t much traffic on the roads. Driving through this red rock country in different weather and light conditions has its unique charm and beauty. On the way I got a view of the Monitor and Merrimac buttes which are named after two ships during the American Civil War.

After a brief stop at the visitor center in Canyonlands I headed to my first stop at Mesa Arch, which requires a very short, under a mile, hike. It’s a spectacular arch with great Canyon and the Le Sal mountains view right behind it and particularly at sunrise you can get dramatic pictures of the underside of the arch lit up in bright orange, golden color. When I went there it was still little cloudy so I could not see the glow effect fully, but still the sunrise through the clouds was worth a watch and I got one of the best personal photos of me of the trip with the arch in the background.

From there I headed to my next point, Aztec Butte. The 1.7-mile roundtrip trail to Aztec Butte, a slickrock dome is steep and includes rock scrambling. There are ancient Pueblo granaries near the rim and the 360-degree surrounding view from the top is spectacular. There was hardly anyone there when I went, and the peacefulness was almost meditative.

From thereon I headed to Whale Rock, which is a sandstone formation resembling a beached whale (to whoever must have named it first). It’s a moderate hike to the top and again providing great surrounding views. Further ahead on the drive is Upheaval dome. A short but strenuous climb brings you to the first viewpoint of Upheaval dome. It’s a bowl-shaped crater with multiple theories about its formation, such as a meteorite or salt dome. I didn’t hike to the second viewpoint.

Driving back on the scenic drive I stopped at couple of overlook points from which you can view the vast canyons below. From the Buck Canyon point the dark canyons resemble map of India seen from the southern end. Interestingly when I mentioned it to some people there, an old man mentioned Sri Lanka. We had a chat and he said that he had worked closely with Sri Lankan prime minister Premadasa in the early 80s. We chatted a bit about that and his visit to different places in India and then I headed back to the park entrance.

The Schaefer Canyon overlook is right opposite the visitor center. From here you can see serpentine dirt roads winding down the canyon and far onto the White Rim Road. The 100 miles White Rim Road loops around and below the Island in the sky mesa top. It requires permits and high clearance four-wheel vehicles to go on it and do backcountry camping (four-wheel-drive trips usually take three to four days). Peeking out and looking at those steep roads going down with sharp switchbacks can make your heart miss a few beats. Even if I had a 4-wheeler, I doubt I would have dared take the chance of driving down on those switchbacks.

I headed back to Moab to have some food at a food park and back to the campsite. Looking back, I could have done a quick stop to Dead Horse State Park which was a little off but on the way. I read that it has great views of the canyon and rivers. But I was exhausted as this 5th day into my trip with lot of driving and hiking and I had 3 more days of itinerary plus drive back home so maybe next time. 


Day 6 - 3/30 – Capital Reef NP

I left Sun Outdoors campground for good around 7.30 am to head to Capital Reef National Park. It’s just over 2 hrs. drive (appr 135 mi) mostly on UT-24. Leaving behind the red rock area I passed through some long straight drives with vast plain land on both sides. The clouds had a reddish tinge to them making the whole landscape feel ethereal. Then I passed through an area with grey, barren hills which looked like cement mounds. Whenever I pass through these varying geologically diverse topographical areas over not too long of a distance, it always makes me wonder what past geological events or weather conditions must have contributed to it.

I arrived at Capital Reef around 9.20 am and headed ahead driving into the park. It was a pleasant, clear day and I drove by with the tall sandstone cliffs and a river flowing alongside the road. My first stop was the lower Grand Wash Trailhead. The description reads "Follow a dry streambed along a rocky, sculpted heart of Capital Reef. As the canyon wall narrows, footsteps echo between the sandstone cliffs looming hundreds of feet overhead....".  I parked my car and headed onto the dry Narrows, though these are much different than the Narrows trail I did in Zion NP where we are wading through running water.

I started walking along on the streambed with the towering cliffs on either side, which had deep fissures and cave like structures all along. As I headed deeper, with hardly anyone on the trail, I was a somewhat afraid of running into a mountain lion. It seemed like a perfect terrain with lot of hideouts and very much like a recent video I had seen of a jogger's encounter with one in Utah. Just to get some sense of security I walked with a rock in hand and playing some music on my phone. Then I came across a few people and was glad that I wasn’t the only one on the trail. The trail is about 2.2 miles to the Upper Grand Wash Trailhead and a little before that is the Cassidy Arch trail.

Cassidy Arch is a natural stone arch high above the cliffs from the Grand Wash. It’s named after Butch Cassidy, who had a hideout in Grand Wash. Cassidy Arch is rated as strenuous trail of 1.7 miles one way, with an elevation change of appr. 700 ft. The first half of the trail is quite hard with rapid elevation change and not much shade on the way. Then you reach the rim above and it gets easier. The arch is huge and more like a natural bridge. You can stand on the arch bridge, and someone can take a photo, from a distance. The surrounding view is awesome with UT-24 winding down below through the park.

I headed back down and again through the Narrows to my car. Driving ahead I arrived at the visitor center and as usual made a stop for a souvenir and information displays. From there I went to the Gifford House, near Frita, which is a historical farmhouse from early Mormon settlers who lived, farmed, and grew fruit orchards. The orchards, which still grow fruits, are part of the park now. At Gifford house they sell fresh fruit pies but had run out when I went there. I was disappointed but was able to get one on my way back on another day.

From there you can jump onto a short scenic byway. There are not many stops or pull outs on the byway but towards the end I arrived at the Capital Gorge Road. This is a dirt, hard terrain road which goes through a narrow gorge. I was hesitant of driving on it but after seeing cars smaller than mine coming out from there I decided to check it out. It’s a slow, crunchy drive but an interesting experience driving on a narrow road with huge cliffs in either side. I drove about couple of miles then turned around and after stopping for some pictures thanks to some walkers, I headed back on the scenic drive to my last stop which was Hickman Bridge Trail. Hickman Bridge Trail is a moderate 0.9 mi hike to a natural bridge. After the Cassidy Arch trail this one felt less adventurous but still worth it. By the time I was back to my car it was close to 6.30 pm and I had about 2.5 hrs.(120mi) drive to my next stop at Bryce Canyon Resort.

One lesson I have learned from these trips is to avoid driving at night on unfamiliar smaller country roads. As I drove on UT-62 and UT-22 and it got darker, I was nervous because of the remoteness of the area. There were hardly any signs of habitation, I had no cell signal (luckily downloaded maps help with navigation if you have them loaded before), many signs of open ranch and if not cattle then plenty of chances of deer encounter given the forest around. I drove at barely 35-40 mi speed hoping to see some lights or signs of activity in vain for miles. Finally, after what seemed like long time I arrived at the resort. It was a nice place with a very helpful, talkative person at the reception who seemed to be the do-it-all person. After a quick shower and dinner, I settled in looking forward to another popular Utah park tomorrow.


Day 7 - 3/31 – Bryce Canyon NP

"You enter the park, drive to the Sunset point (as suggested by the Ranger), park your car, go to overlook and are just awestruck with the 'kesariya' (saffron) world stretched below you. Then you hike, winding down these amazing 'hoodoos', taking in nature's wonder through your eyes and your camera. The weather changes multiple times from cloudy to snow flurries to bright sun with clear skies, each of them casting the view in different light like some stage show. All in all, 7 miles of hiking down and up in about 5-6 hrs. as if strolling through an enchanted world. That was Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah for me today."

 This was my Facebook post the day I visited the park which sums it up well. I woke up early that day and was at the park entrance by 8 am. I stopped at the visitor center for souvenir shopping and info then went to the Sunset point parking lot. From there it’s a short walk to the overlook and as mentioned above it was just an amazing sight spread in front and below me. The tall orange hoodos stretching out in a semicircle below, with winding trails in the hazy morning light was worth a sight. 

 I started on the Navajo trail which starts right near the Sunset point. The trail winds down into and through the hoodos and other rock formations with awesome zigzag switchbacks at some points. As I was going down, the skies got darker and there were rapid snowflakes but not much. It cleared up soon, but it was one of the multiple weather conditions that I was to encounter that day. Once down I had the choice to continue onto the Queens Garden trail or the Peekaboo trail on either side. I decided to explore the Peekaboo trail for some distance then come back and complete the Queen's trail. 

 The trail takes its name from the many surprises that await around its turns and elevation changes. While rated as moderate, due to rapid elevation changes and total length it is also considered hard. After some flat walking areas on the Peekaboo trail, it started going up and becoming strenuous. I was walking at a leisurely pace stopping often to take photos or videos and taking in/ admiring the surrounding beauty. Sometimes the sun was completely out, sometimes it was covered with clouds, and the differing lighting with blue skies and white clouds in the background offered beautiful views of the vistas. There was even a passing quick, rain shower when I had to take shelter under some trees. Multiple times I had to switch between a full sleeve and light half sleeve jacket depending on temps. 

The whole trail is a 5-mile loop, but I went about halfway to the Wall of Windows and started back the way I came. Coming back on the earlier fork, I now headed onto the Queens Garden trail. This is a popular hike as it is shorter but offers amazing views of the hoodoos and rock formations. By the time I had completed the Queen's trail and was back up at the Sunset point, I had completed about 7 miles of hiking on what is termed as the Loop 8 trail (Navajo, Queens, and Peekaboo) and about 5 hrs. of hiking. It is hard to explain everything you see in words here; you really must walk and experience it. 

I had a quick lunch in the car and drove further onto the scenic drive stopping at one of the lookout points. However, once you have walked through below and seen the formations up close, the views from the lookout points don’t hold as much charm. It was late afternoon, and I was tired, so I decided to head back to the resort for a nap and then come back up later to watch the sunset. 

Back at the resort and after a nap when I looked out it was raining and very cloudy. It wasn’t an ideal condition to watch sunset, so I decided to just stay in and instead catch the sunrise in the morning. Tomorrow was my last day of the itinerary of the trip after which it was a long drive home, for whatever time it would take. 


Day 8 – 4/1 – Scenic Byway 12 + Journey Home

I got up early and was at the Bryce Canyon Sunrise point just before sunrise. There was a decent amount of people already there. The weather was chilly and bit windy. The valley below was spread out in hazy light fog in some places and clear but darker in other places. As the sun rose over the dark mountains far away the whole scenery was bathed up in golden, orange light. It was a beautiful sight. I hung there for some time taking pictures then drove up to Bryce Point lookout which I had missed the previous day. Ice crystals covered the wood railings and fallen logs which provided a great foreground to the scenery beyond.

I headed back to the resort for breakfast and checkout. My plan was to get onto to US Scenic Byway 12, a 120 plus mile paved scenic road which runs from Bryce Canyon NP Park in the west and ends up near Torrey and Capital Reef NP Park in the east.  Thereafter I would be on my way home.

The scenic byway has the designation of 'All American Road' and passes through many places worth exploring in between the national parks at its end. This includes State parks (Anasazi State Park, Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, Kodachrome Basin State Park), small towns (Tropic, Escalante, Cannonville, Boulder), off-road trails such as Burr's trail, Hell's Backbone trail with slot canyons plus waterfalls. It may take a full day or even multiple days to explore everything, however some places are not easily accessible or require 4x4 or off-road vehicles due to unpaved roads.

As for me I just took a lazy drive on the byway offering panoramic views and through Dixie National Forest. On the way I did the Mossy Cave trail up to a small waterfall, drove a few miles on the Burr's trail and stopped at a few lookout points. With lot of remoteness and things spread out it’s not an easy place to explore. Once I reached Capital Reef Park, I stopped by again at the Gifford House and was lucky enough to get a pie this time.

I wouldn’t list out too many details of my appr. 1700 mi drive back home through UT, CO, NB, IO, IL, IN back to MI. The drive through Colorado was the most exciting with mountain driving most of the way up to Denver. Most of the other drive was through the plains, tiresome and with multiple rest stops. I had left UT on Friday afternoon and by the time I reached home it was Sunday just past midnight. Even though tired and weary I was glad the whole trip happened mostly as per plan, without any mishaps or weather issues. Looking forward to many such trips in future. 

जावकर काका

मी देत्रॉइटला 1998 ला आलो आणि पहिल्या काही मित्रांमध्ये जावकर कुटुंब आले. त्याच ओघात एक दोन वर्षात जावकर काका काकुंशी माझी भेट झाली. नातवंडे...