जावकर काका

मी देत्रॉइटला 1998 ला आलो आणि पहिल्या काही मित्रांमध्ये जावकर कुटुंब आले. त्याच ओघात एक दोन वर्षात जावकर काका काकुंशी माझी भेट झाली. नातवंडे लहान होती व दोघांना प्रवास झेपायचा म्हणून काका काकू तेव्हा वारंवार इथे यायचे. तेव्हा आमच्या - त्यांच्या घरी, किंवा कुठे potluck/get-together ला, कॅम्पिंग अश्या अनेक प्रसंगी त्यांच्याशी नेहमी संपर्क यायचा. एका कॅम्पिंगच्या वेळी मी, काका आणि काकू एका कूलरचे टेबल करून पत्ते खेळतोय असा एक ठेवणीतला फोटो माझ्याकडे आहे.

2001ला सिद्धी झाली तेव्हा आई इथे आली होती आणि त्यांची आईशी सुद्धा खूप मस्त गट्टी जमली. विशेषतः काका आणि आई ह्या दोघांचा स्वभाव म्हणजे जगमित्र, सगळ्यांशी चटकन कनेक्ट होण्याचा, खूप गप्पिष्ट असा होता म्हणून ते खूप खेळीमेळीने, एकमेकांना दादा - ताई असे संबोधत, बोलायचे.

आमच्या घरी गणपती उत्सवाला बहुतेक 2001 लाच ते पहिल्यांदा आले. त्यानंतरही बऱ्याचदा आले. मग डेकोरेशनसाठी फुलांच्या माळा/ तोरणे, घंटा, इलेक्ट्रिक दीपमाळ अश्या गोष्टी ते आवरजून आणत किंवा कुणासोबत भारतातून पाठवत. अजूनही दरवर्षी गणपतीला त्या गोष्टी वापरताना त्या दोघांची मला हमखास आठवण होते. 

काकांना माणसे नीट परखण्याची जाण होती.  कुणाचे डावे उजवे ते आपसूक हेरत. मग कधी कुणाची खूप वाखाणणी करत किंवा कुणाला वडिलकीच्या नात्याने डटावत सुध्दा. प्रशांतच्या सर्व जवळच्या मित्रांचे काकाही जणू मित्रच होते. त्यांच्यासोबत निखळ गप्पा गोष्टी करणे किंवा पार्टीत त्यांची कंपनी/ ड्रिंक्स एन्जॉय करण्यात कधीच आम्हाला संकोच नाही वाटला.

2014 साली काका काकूंचा ऐंशीवा वाढदिवस साजरा करण्यात आला. तेव्हा मी एक कविता केली होती. ती त्यांना खूप आवडली. मंडळाच्या मासिकांमध्ये माझ्या कविता छापून येत त्या ते वाचत. एकदा ते मला म्हणाले "तुझ्यात खोल कुठेतरी तू खूप साठवून ठेवले आहेस. ते तुझ्या डोक्यात घोळत असते आणि तुझ्या कवितेतून साकारते". FB/Insta वरच्या हजार likes पेक्षा ही अशी एक दोन वाक्ये ही खरी ओळख पावती.

काकांचं स्वतःचं असे मुंबईला एक विश्व होते. त्यांच्या खास एका क्लबला जाणे, मित्रांना भेटणे, स्वतः ड्रायव्हिंग करणे ह्या गोष्टी सोडून कायम इथे येणे त्यांना कधी पटले नाही. प्रशांतने खूपदा विनवणी करूनही ह्यावर ते ठाम राहिले. काही वर्षांपूर्वी काकू गेल्या. त्यानंतर काकांची तब्येतही खालावत गेली. 2-3 वर्षापूर्वी त्यांची पुण्यात रहायची व्यवस्था झाली कारण मुंबईत एकट्याने रहाणे शक्य नव्हते. आईच्या आजाराचे निदान झाले तेव्हा आईची इच्छा म्हणून मी 2022 ला पुणे, त्रिवेंद्रम अशी एक धावती भेट दिली. तेव्हा काकांना भेटायचे होते पण आईच्या तब्येतीमुळे राहून गेले...

जसजशी आपली वये वाढताहेत तसतशी आपल्याला आधार देणारी, सावली देणारी झाडे हळूहळू वठत जाऊन, उन्मळून, स्वर्गात जाताहेत. ह्याचे दुःख वाटणे स्वाभाविक आहे. पण त्यांनी जी समृध्द आयुष्ये जगली आणि आपली समृध्द केली तेही विसरता कामा नये. असेच काहीसे मी या ऐंशीव्या वाढदिवसाच्या कवितेत सादर केले होते. काका आता एका वेगळ्या क्लबमध्ये सामील झाले. तिथेही त्यांचा आत्म्याला तृप्ती आणि शांती मिळो हीच प्रार्थना🙏

वय ऐंशी उलटले तेव्हा मला उमजले
जे जे मी साधले ते ते मला गवसले

उत्तुंग पर्वतशिखर मला सर करायचे होते
विस्तीर्ण सागराला आलिंगन द्यायचे होते
चांदणे वेचून ओंजळीत भरायचे होते
कल्पवृक्षाचे बन अंगणी फुलवायचे होते

विशीतल्या स्वप्नांची हीच गोडी असते
कल्पनेचे फुलपाखरू हवे तसे उडते
चाळीशीच्या उंबरठ्यावर पाय खाली टेकले
साठी आली तोवर खुंट, घट्ट खोल रुतले

मग सुरु झाली त्या स्वप्नांची उजळणी
किती अधिक, किती वजा, सर्वांची मोजणी
कर्तृत्वाची शिखरं सारी मी सर केली
संकटांना अभिडपणे आलिंगने दिली

कुटुंबाच्या सहवासात ओंजळ सुखाने भरली
सगे -सोयरे मित्रांची अंगणात बाग फुलली
कल्पनेतली फुलपाखरं नेहमीच उडत होती
क्षणोक्षणी मधुकण प्राशून घेत होती
वय ऐंशी उलटले, तेव्हा उमजतंय मला
जे जे मी साधले, ते ते गवसले मला

सुरेश नायर
 ९/२१/२०२४

 

 

सरस्वती वंदना

 दसऱ्याचे निमित्त साधून ही रचना झाली. सरस्वती रागावर आधारित देवीची स्तुती व प्रार्थना

वंदीन तुला देवी सरस्वती
वागीश्वरी वरदायिनी

श्र्वेतांबरी तू, हंसवाहिनी 
वेद, वीणा, शोभती हाती
तू बुध्दीदात्री, कलास्वामिनी 
देई कृपा हे भगवती

ये पावसा

ये पावसा मेघांचा रथ करुनी

भेटून जा तू आनंदे बरसोनी 

संकेत देई माती मृदगंध शिंपडूनी 

वाराही गाई गाणी येणार तू म्हणोनी

सृष्टीच आहे सारी तुजसाठी आतुरली 

अवघाच आसमंत जावा असा भिजुनी

बीज अंकुरावी आणिक बहरू दे वृक्षवेली

भिजल्या मनी फुलावी आशेची पल्लवी

त्या फुलांच्या गंधकोषी

 

नुकतेच फेसबुकवर कुणाच्या तरी भारतफेरीच्या पोस्टवर काही फुलांचे फोटो होते. ते पाहून चटकन  'शंकासुर' हे नाव, माझ्या मनातील खूप जुन्या, आतल्या कप्प्यातून आपसूक वर आले. आणि लहानपणी मी पुण्याला फर्ग्युसन रोडवर रहायचो तो 'हरिहर निवास' वाडा आणि सभोतालचा परिसर एकदम डोळ्यासमोर आला. विशेषतः तिथली फुले आणि फुलझाडे. 

इथे अमेरिकेत फुले, फुलझाडे लावणे हे landscaping, gardening अश्या सूत्रबद्ध प्रकारात मोडते. कदाचित भारतातही आता तसे असेल. पण मला लहानपणचे जे आठवते ते सारे ओबडधोबड कुणी इथे हे लावले, कुणी तिथे ते लावले असे होते. इकडच्या काही फुलांची नावे सोडली तर बरीचशी मला अनोळखीच भासतात. पण तिकडची नुसती ओझरती आठवण झाली आणि निदान दहा बारा नावे पटकन ओठांवर आली.

रोजच्या देवपुजेला, सणासुदीला आमच्या घरचे किंवा शेजारचे कुणीतरी आम्हां मुलांना 'जा फुले घेऊन या' असे सांगायचे. तेव्हढाच काय तो आमचा आणि त्या फुलांचा संबंध. नाहीतर आम्ही एकतर शाळा, अभ्यासात व्यस्त नाहीतर खेळात दंग. पण लहानपणीच्या गोष्टी आपण सहजी विसरत नाही असे म्हणतात म्हणून कदाचित ते सगळे आठवत असेल.

सर्वप्रथम आठवते ते म्हणजे आमच्या वाड्याच्या मागे होते ते प्राजक्ताचे झाड. यासारखे दुसरे झाड नाही. गर्द केशरी देठ आणि काही पांढऱ्या पाकळ्या असे साधे, छोटे फुल. पण त्याचे सौंदर्य संख्येत असते. सकाळी झाडाखाली पडलेला/ पडत असलेला फुलांचा सडा पाहणे म्हणजे एक नेत्रसुखद अनुभव असतो. एकदा वेचली की ती फुले खूप वेळ ताजी रहात नाहीत, कोमेजतात. इथे देट्रॉइटला आमच्या समोरच्या अंगणात एक चेरीचे झाड आहे. ते spring मध्ये काहीसे प्राजक्तासारखे पुरत्या पांढऱ्याश्या फुलांनी डवरते तेवढ्यावर समाधान. फार पूर्वी मी एक चारोळी लिहिली होती "स्वर्गलोकीचा प्राजक्त, पृथ्वीवर उभा असतो, आसवांची फुले करून, ढाळीत सदा असतो". गंमत म्हणजे विकिपीडिया वर पाहिले तर याला tree of sorrow, tree of sadness असेही म्हणतात हे मला आता समजले.

प्राजक्ताच्या झाडाशेजारी एक पांढऱ्या कण्हेरीचे झाड होते. तितके उंच नाही तरीही आठ दहा फूट तरी उंच असावे. शंकराला पांढरे फुल लागते म्हणून याची मागणी असे. जरा अलीकडे वाड्याच्या भिंतीला लागून अशी गुलबक्षीची लांबलचक रांग होती. लाल, गुलाबी, पिवळी, पांढरी अश्या निरनिराळ्या रंगातील ही फुले दुपारी उशिरा वा संध्याकाळी उमलतात म्हणून याला four o'clock flower असेही म्हणतात. आमच्या शेजारच्या वैद्यकाकू गणपतीत ही फुले वेणीसारखी माळून गणपतीसाठी हार करून देत.

माने आडनावाचे आमच्या वाड्यांचे मालक तिथेच मागे एका स्वतंत्र वाड्यात रहात. त्यांच्या बागेत गुलाब, जास्वंद, लीली, मोगरा, बोगनवेल अशी बरीच फुलझाडे होती. तिथे मात्र आम्ही फारसे फिरकायचो नाही. एकदम मागच्या बाजूला धुणी भांडी यासाठी एक सार्वजनिक हौद आणि दोन तीन नळ होते. त्याच्या सभोती कोरांटीची झाडे होते. जांभळ्या व पांढऱ्या रंगाची कोरांटी आणि त्यालागत एक अबोलीचे झाड. कोरांटीला काटे असतात असे अंधुक आठवते. 

याच्या पलीकडे एक छोटीशी अरुंद गल्ली होती आणि मागे गोखले बंगला (या निंबाची आळी नावाच्या गल्लीवर मागे मी एक रोचक लेख लिहिला होता). मी वर नमूद केले ते शंकासुराचे झाड तिथेच कुंपणापाशी होते. केशरी पिवळ्या रंगाच्या फुलांचा झुपका, फुलाच्या मध्ये लांबसर तुरा असे हे फुल. तिथेच जवळपास एक बकुळीचा वृक्ष. प्राजक्ता सारखेच बकुळीचाही सडा पडतो. अगदी छोटीशी,  बारीक कमळासारख्या आकाराची, पिवळसर पांढऱ्या / मातकट रंगाची पण अतिशय सुगंधी अशी ही फुले. 

आमच्या वाड्याला लागूनच एक आणखी वाडा होता. त्याच्या मागील बाजूस कुणीतरी रातराणी लावली होती. नाजूक, बारीक फुलांच्या झुपक्याने फुलणारी रातराणी सुवासासाठी प्रसिध्द आहे. अगदी लांबूनही कुणी सहज ओळखू शकेल इतका हीचा दरवळ. पण भर जोमात फुलते तेव्हा जवळून तो सुवास काहीसा उग्र/ overpowering वाटतो. पलीकडे या दोन वाड्यांची हद्द संपे तिथे भिंत होती आणि त्या भिंतीला लागून हजारी मोगरा होता. मोठी गोलसर पाने आणि मोठाले पांढऱ्या, गुलाबीसर फुलांचे झुपके ही याची खासियत. याला मोगऱ्याइतका सुगंध असतो का ते आता आठवत नाही. तिथेच जवळ जरा झाडाझुडपाच्या गर्दीत एक चाफ्याचे झाड होते. पण चाफ्यापाशी साप असतात ही गोष्ट (खरी की खोटी देव जाणे) आम्हां मुलांमध्ये रुजली होती म्हणून आम्ही तिथे फिरकायचो नाही. खेळताना बॉल जरी चुकून तिथे गेला की बिचकत, लांब काठीने वगैरे काढणे व्हायचे.

सरतेशेवटी उल्लेख करायचा म्हणजे या वाड्याच्या पुढ्यात, फर्ग्युसन रस्त्याला लागून होते ते भले मोठे गुलमोहराचे झाड. भगव्या, केशरी रंगाने फुललेला गुलमोहोर आपल्या नावाला जागतो. गुलमोहोर नाव मी गुगल केले तर flamboyant tree, flame tree अशी आपसूक वर्णावी ही नावे या झाडाला आहेत. 

आता अर्थात यातले काहीच तिथे नाही. वाडे पाडले जाऊन नवीन इमारती आल्या, त्यासोबत झाडेही गेली. फर्ग्युसन रस्त्यावरची बरीच झाडे, विशेषतः एक दोन मोठाली वडाची झाडे रस्ता रुंदीकरता पाडली गेली तेव्हा पुणेकरांनी हळहळ व्यक्त केली होती. घर, अंगण यासोबत त्याच्या आजूबाजूचा परिसर, झाडा झुडपांशी सुद्धा आपले कळत नकळत बंध जुळतात. आणि मग असेच कधीतरी पद्मा गोळे आपल्या कवितेत लिहितात तसे आपणही विचारतो "का बरे आलास आज स्वप्नात"? मग तो चाफा असो, गुलमोहोर असो की प्राजक्त. अन् मग आपली आपणच समजूत काढतो की निदान आठवणींनी ओंजळ भरलिये ना.

सुरेश नायर 

 ८/१७/२४

वानप्रस्थ

माझ्या शेजारच्या घरात एक खूप वयस्क जोडपे रहाते. जवळपास नव्वदीच्या वयाचे गृहस्थ आणि ३-४ वर्षाच्या फरकाने त्यांची पत्नी. दोन्ही मुले कॅलिफोर्निया येथे स्थायिक. गेल्या साधारण सहा सात वर्षाच्या वास्तव्यात मी त्यांची तब्येत सतत खालावत चाललेली पहातोय. तरीही दोघे सतत बाहेर बागकाम करत असतात. बागेची निगा, झाडांची काटछाट, weeds काढणे, mowerने गवत कापणे अशी कामे रोज चालू असतात.

त्यांना या वयात ही शारीरिक कामे करताना पाहून, विशेषतः गाडी चालवताना पाहून माझ्या मनात विचार येतो की अशी risky lifestyle हे कशाला जगतात. कुठेतरी independent assisted living community मध्ये किंवा निदान काँडो मध्ये का राहत नाहीत. पण त्यांच्याशी झालेल्या काही मोजक्या संवादातून इतका निष्कर्ष निघाला की चाळीसहून अधिक वर्षे या घरात राहिल्यानंतर त्यांना ती स्वतंत्र राहणी सोडणे कठीण वाटते.

नुकतेच जो बाईडन प्रकरण आपल्या सर्वांची उत्कंठा वाढवून गेले. चार वर्षांपूर्वी मी अतिशय उत्साहाने ज्याला मत दिले, ज्याचे समर्थन केले त्याने आता पुन्हा या वयात प्रयत्न करू नये हे माझे खूप आधीपासूनचे मत होते. नव्या दमाच्या, नव्या पिढीच्या उमेदवाराला सूत्रे देण्याऐवजी लहान मुलासारखे "मी मी" चा हट्ट आणि अट्टाहास मला काहीसा असह्य वाटला. अर्थात एका माणसाला दोष देणेही बरोबर नाही. पार्टीतले इतर बुजुर्ग मंडळी चार वर्षे झोपली होती काय असा प्रश्नही पडतो. असो, तर इथे सत्ता आणि मीपणा सहजी सोडवत नाही हे ठळक दिसते.

माझी आई टिव्ही वर मराठी - हिंदी सीरिअल्स पहायची. त्यात सासू-सूना, आई-वडील व मुले यांच्यातील, अगदी रंगवून दाखवलेले वाद सतत असायचा. त्याची खिल्ली उडवता उडवता मीही आईला सांगायचो "हे बघ, तू तुझी कर्तव्य पार पाडली. तुझी मुले, त्यांची मुले सर्व काही व्यवस्थित आहे. मग उगाच ह्याची काळजी, त्याची काळजी करणे, हे असे का, तसे का वगैरे विचारणे हे सगळे सोडून दे. अगदी निश्चिंत आयुष्य जग". अर्थात आईला संसारातून ही असली विरक्ती घेणे अवघड होते. She was too invested in our lives. आणि त्यातून अंग काढून घेणे तिला कठीण होते.

या सर्वातून मला वानप्रस्थ ही प्राचीन राहणीमानातील एक प्रकार किंवा संस्था आकर्षित करते. निदान conceptually तरी. बहुतेकांना महाभारतातील कथेतून हे परिचित असेल. मध्यम किंवा उतारवयात, एकदा पुढची पिढी मोठी होऊन कर्ती झाली, की आपण स्वतः संसारातून दूरस्थ होऊन विरक्ती घ्यायची आणि बहुतेक सुख-भोगाच्या गोष्टींचा त्याग करून वनात जाऊन रहायचे असे काहीसे. कुंती, गांधारी, धृथराष्ट्र आणि पुढे दौपदीसोबत पाचही पांडव यांनी याचा स्वीकार केला होता.

आजच्या युगातही आपण निदान ही mentality आत्मसात करायला हवी असे मला स्वतःला वाटते. सर्व सोडून वनात जाऊन राहावे असे नाही. पण 'अडकून रहाणे' ह्या वृत्तीचा त्याग करावा. एकदा आपली कर्तव्य पार पाडली की तुमच्या आयुष्याचा focus बदला, स्वतःला वेगळ्या कशात तरी रमवा. प्रवास करा, नवा छंद जोडा, नवे मित्र मंडळी शोधा. उगाच घर, व्यवहारात खूप अडकु नका, मुलंबाळं यांच्या आयुष्यात नको तेव्हढी लुडबुड करू नका. त्यांना त्यांचा स्वतःचा मार्ग शोधू द्या, स्वतःच्या सोयीने, हवे तसे जगू द्या. तुमच्यावाचूनही त्यांचे पान हलू शकते हे जाणून घ्या. Diminishing returns हा concept कालांतराने आपल्यालाही लागू होतो हे स्वीकार करा म्हणजे उगाच नंतर हिरमुसायची वेळ नाही येणार.

मला empty nester हा शब्दही बोचतो. एकतर ज्याअर्थी आपण वापरतो ते बरोबर नाही. जेव्हा पिल्ले मोठी होऊन घरटे सोडून निघून जातात तेव्हा ती नर मादी पक्षांची जोडी दोघेच घरट्यात रहात नाहीत. नक्की कुठे जातात माहीत नाही. कदाचित नविन घरटे, नवे कुटुंब यात रमतात किंवा त्याच घरट्यात पुन्हा नवे कुटुंब सुरू करतात. मग आपण तरी कशाला आपले घरटे रिकामे होऊ द्यायचे. मी वर म्हणालो तसे नव्या गोष्टींनी ते घरटे समृध्द करा. मुक्त व्हा, मोकळे व्हा.

कुछ पाकर खोना है, कुछ खोकर पाना है,
जीवन का मतलब तो, आना और जाना है

सुरेश नायर
७/१३/२४

आज दिल कुछ सूना सूना है

A poem I wrote inspired by the light and shadows as I sit in the living room sometimes in the late evening hours. First it was just the words, then narration and then putting it together with pictures....

आज दिल कुछ सूना सूना है

बेवजह मुड ही कूछ ऐसा है

सोफे पे पडे, शाम के साये

देखता हुं देर तक अंधराते 

यू तो अब वक्त हो गया है
बत्तीयोंके शोंख उजालों का
पर शाम रात मे घुल गई 
और बत्तिया जलने से रही

बस युही यहापर लेटे लेटे
याद आती हैं वो गुजरी शामे
आहटे आते जाते पैरोंकी
आवाजें हसने गुनगुनानेकी

रसोई से लेहराती खुशबूए 
बर्तनोंकी की खडखडाहट
कही नल से बेहता पानी
हर आवाज जानी पेहचानी

आखिर घर घर नहीं होता
दिवारें, दरवाजें, झरोखोंसे 
सोफा, टीव्ही, रंगिन परदोंसे
तसबिरोंसे, चूनींदे पौधोंसे

घर जिता है, सांसे लेता है
किसीके ऊसमे होने से
घरका घरपन मेहसुस होता है
किसिके होनेके ऐहसास से

अब लगता है घर खो बैठा है
अपनी जिंदा धडकती रुह
बाकी है कुछ बेजान चीजे
जिनमे शायद मैं भी एक हुं 

New England Trip - Summer 2023

Links to all photos and videos from the trip 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XqbL45Cf6DTUyyLq5

Planning

I asked my son Malhar where he wanted to go for vacation during the summer school holidays and being a history fan, he mentioned Boston. I had also planned a trip to New England states a year back, but it had not happened. So, this seemed like a good opportunity for us to do both as a road trip.

Day 1 – Jun 26 - Niagara

Though I had visited I Niagara 2-3 times before, Malhar had not so we decided to start the trip by visiting Niagara first. We started early (from Novi, MI) and arrived at Buffalo, NY in the afternoon. After checking into our hotel, we went to Niagara Falls and decided to do the Cave of the Winds self-tour first. This is a good way to explore the falls closely, walking on the boardwalk and even getting soaked (thankfully they provide plastic covers, so you are not fully drenched). We explored the area a bit after the tour and then took the Maid of the Mist boat tour. This is a thrilling experience going on the water right up to the falls and feeling the thunder and the mist on yourself. The rainbows created due to the play of mist and sunlight is another great visual treat. 

We then went for dinner at a local Mexican restaurant ‘ La Galera’ and had some delicious fajitas. Then it was time to go back to the falls to see the colors at night and to watch the fireworks. Walking on the pathway along the flowing water at night, all lit with bright colored lights and seeing the falls themselves in changing multicolor is a wonderful experience.  The fireworks were something new for me as I had not seen them in my past visits. It was quite crowded, this being close to the July 4th holiday, but we were able to view and enjoy the fireworks clearly. Then it was time to go back to the hotel and rest. 

Day 2 – Jun 27 – Drive to Boston, MA

This was an uneventful day as we spent the entire day driving from Niagara to Boston. It was raining heavily for part of the drive which slowed us down and by the time we reached the hotel it was almost past 4 pm. 

We were staying south of Boston in Quincy area and nearby there was a nature reservation area named Blue Hills. We decided to go there and had a short hike through a nature trail and then had a middle eastern dinner at a Falafel place. 

Day 3 – Jun 28 – Explore Boston

Knowing the hassles of parking and driving in Boston downtown we had decided to use the MBTA subway system, so we drove and parked in the Quincy station and took the subway metro to Boston Commons. This is the start of the Boston Freedom trail, so we took a brochure and map from the information booth and started walking the trail.

Exploring the Freedom Trail is a unique experience following the trail marked with pavers on the sidewalk and walking all over Boston downtown. We explored and visited Boston Commons, Legislative house, Granary Burial Ground, King’s Chapel, Old State House, Boston Market, Faneuil Hall, Paul Revere House, The Old North Church, and  Bunker Hill Monument. My son had read about some of these events in his history lessons and probably had more information than me. At each place we stopped and explored, reading plaques and information boards, and viewing things around. Going up the stairs at Bunker Hills Monument and looking at the surroundings from top was a nice experience. It was hot and we had walked miles, so we took a ferry back to Boston Harbor and explored the area and visited the USS Constitution Ship. 

We then went to the Boston Tea Party Museum and show. This was something Malhar was very interested in. Initially they gave us all cards with names of historical characters that we were supposed to be (I was Thomas Chase, a distiller and Malhar was Benjamin Edes, a co-publisher of the Boston Gazette!). Then there was a historical speech by a person dressed in historical costume which was a prelude to the tea party event. Then they took us to an actual replica boat where children could dump tea (just some floating resin bags tied with rope 😊). But it was enough excitement for kids and adults alike. 

Since we had all day metro pass we next went to Harvard. We walked around, exploring the area and had dinner at one busy restaurant. It was full of Harvard crowd, had a good vibe and the food was awesome. Then we made it back to our hotel, tired but satisfied.

Day 4 – Jun 29 – Plymouth, Cape Cod

Today we were visiting Cape Cod and I had booked a Whale Watching Excursion with Hyannis Whale Watcher Cruises. On the way we wanted to stop by Plymouth Rock, given its historical significance. We arrived at Plymouth rock around 9.30 am. There is a monument type structure over the rock along the shore and the year 1620 is carved on the rock. We were also pleasantly surprised to see a life-size replica of the Mayflower historic ship, which carried the Pilgrims across the Atlantic, sitting along the seashore,. It is called Mayflower II and was built in England and sailed to US in 1957. 

Then we were on our way to Cape Cod. We went straight to the cruise, checked in and got our seats on the large cruiser boat. Once started, they took us at fast speed at least 60-70 miles in the waters closer to Provincetown. There were many other boats/ cruisers where we stopped, and I guessed there is some sort of communication between all of them as to where the Whales are hanging out on any particular day. There were many whales in the water in different sizes and a lot of activity all around. There was person on the speaker giving out information and they seem to have names for most whales based on the tags and some physical features such as clipped fins. It was quite thrilling for both me and Malhar, this being our first-time watching whales so up and close. We must have been in there for more than an hour and then it was time for us to return. Once on shore we went to a nearby beach and walked on it but the tide was low and water far out. 

We then started our long 6 hrs. drive towards Bangor in ME to visit Acadia National Park next day. We arrived at our hotel around 9 pm, had a pizza for dinner and slept. 

Day 5 – Jun 30 – Acadia National Park, ME

We got in the morning and drove more than an hour’s drive to Acadia National Park. It was a bit confusing at first to get our bearings but eventually we landed at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center. The parking lot was almost full and the ranger at the visitor center advised us to take the free park shuttle instead of driving on our own, as it was very busy, and we may have had parking problems in most places. We decided to take up on it which was a wise decision. The shuttle took us to our initial stop at Sand Beach. We went on the beach first to explore. Unlike open beaches I have seen most elsewhere here it is different with a sandy beach surrounded by hills and cliffs rising on the sides. It was foggy out in the sea and the water was cold. We took a few photos then decide to come back here later after exploring other places. 

Next to Sand Beach is the Beehive Trailhead so we decided to hike the trail. My initial thought was to do part of trail then return as Malhar is not that used to hiking. However, I was surprised as he wanted to keep going even though it looked quiet challenging and steep up the mountain. The trail was very busy and there were areas near the rock scrambles where we had to wait for some slow hikers. In time though we made it to the Beehive Summit, and I was really impressed by Malhar doing it so easily (at home he is even averse to hiking flat trails at nearby State Parks). We completed the whole loop and arrived back at Sand Beach. We then walked along a pathway or flat trail going parallel to the cliffs dropping to the ocean, towards Thunder Hole. This is a natural small rocky cove where sea water rushes in with the waves and makes thundering noise while emptying out. You can view it from a platform above. From there we took the shuttle but did not stop at any stops (Otter Cliff, Jordan Pond) as we had a reservation for Cadillac Summit Road. 

After arriving at the visitor center, we drove just at our reservation time to the Cadillac Summit Road and drove up to the summit. This is a 3-mile scenic drive, and the summit is highest point in Acadia and a popular place to view Sunrise or Sunset. I hadn’t got either reservation but still wanted to go there. The views are fine but it was foggy so we really could not see much far out. We just hiked and walked around on the summit, took some photos, and turned back driving to Sand Beach again. We wanted to enjoy the beach waters, but it was cold. We still played a bit in water and Malhar had a great time. This too was a surprise as he isn’t fond of swimming or water either. We then left Acadia having had a great day altogether. 

Day 6 /7– Jul 1 – Mt. Washington, NH/ Vermont 

It was time from our journey back home, but we still had one more destination and state in mind. White Mountains in New Hampshire. We drove the 4-hr. journey from Bangor, ME to Mt. Washington Cog Railway Base Station in New Hampshire. The Cog is the first mountain-climbing cog railway in the world and the second steepest. The Cog goes up to Mt. Washington summit in the White Mountains which is the highest peak in the Northeast US. It is part of the Appalachian trail and due its unpredictive weather considered the trickiest section of the trail. 

Taking the Cog railway up to the summit is a cool and easy way than hiking up the mountain. We got our tickets and boarded one of the two railcars. The ascent up is quite steep and slow. As you progress you can observe the change in topography, with tall pine trees giving way to smaller, dwarf trees and almost no vegetation near the summit. This is due to the cold weather and the winds. Once we reached the summit we explored around in all directions. There was a long line to take photos at the Summit sign but we did that. We could see may AT hikers walking along on the trail. There is a weather station and observatory at the summit, but I don’t think we can visit it from inside.

After a stay of about an hour we did the return journey descending down. Then it was time for our long return drive home. We drove across Vermont, through the Green Mountains but we did not stop at any place. It does look scenic with lots of forested areas and trees and I am sure there are wonderful places to visit and do nature activities. But there wasn’t anything exceptional that I thought we had to visit based on what I looked up online. We drove till Utica, NY, stayed there overnight and then next day drove back home.  

चार चित्रोळया

 

Rocky Mountain - Grand Teton - Yellowstone Trip - Summer 2023

Links to all the photos and videos from the trip 

Colorado/ Rocky Mountains - https://photos.app.goo.gl/F3AE6FUrBn3wd8sG6

Grand Teton - Yellowstone - https://photos.app.goo.gl/b65vGFhUzusbteeX8

Planning

In the past 2-3 years and especially after Covid pandemic, like most people I also caught the travel bug. I was especially enamored by the beautiful and well-preserved National Parks and after visiting Arizona and all the parks in Utah, the Mighty West just beckoned me for more. 

I still however had yet to visit Yellowstone, the ultimate National Park so to speak. It had also been almost a year since my mother’s cancer diagnosis and everything that comes with it as the primary caregiver. I had a good summer vacation with my son Malhar to Niagara and North England states, but I had a window of opportunity for a solo vacation around Labor Day weekend so decided to go ahead with this trip. Luckily, things fell in place, and I was able to visit my dream destination. 

I should thank some of the FB groups I joined where I got lot of information of the places I planned to visit, either by reading about other people’s experiences or asking questions. www.earthtrekkers.com was also extremely helpful resource with their itineraries and useful info for various places. 

Day 1 – Aug 28 – Garden of Gods

Since I could not leave my mother alone due to her health the plan was for her to stay with my nephew in OH. Hence I had booked my flights to Denver from Columbus. Mom and I drove early morning from MI to my nephew’s home and he then dropped me to the Columbus airport. By the time I arrived in Denver and took my rental car it was already past 4 pm. From there I drove to Colorado Springs. 

Garden of Gods in Colorado Springs is a wonderful red rock natural landscape with some impressive formations. Compared to much larger Arches or Bryce Canyon National Parks in Utah this place has similar red rock natural features but much smaller in size (and somewhat underwhelming if you have seen the ones in Utah before). But if you are in the vicinity it is still worth a visit. One could easily spend half a day or an entire day here, but I only had about couple of hours at most. Luckily, it was the golden hour and as I drove through, stopping at a few places to view the beautiful landscape against the stunning colors in the sky, it truly felt as if I was in the Garden of Gods. 

Day 2 – Aug 29 – Rocky Mountain National Park  

The next day I had an entry pass booked ahead for the Rocky Mountain National Park with Bear Lake Road access from 10 am to noon. Hence I started early for the 3-hr. drive from Colorado Springs to RMNP. The drive isn’t bad except when near Denver which can slow down a bit. However, I was able to make it in time and enter the park. I had heard that the Bear Lake parking lot gets full early, hence I parked at the shuttle parking and decided to take the free park shuttle instead. 

From the online FB groups, I had learned about altitude sickness and acclimatation and decided that the first day I will do some easy hikes before trying something more difficult with higher altitude. Hence I embarked on the lakes trail which includes Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, and Emerald Lake. This is just a moderate trail, with stunning views of the mountains and beautiful lakes. The lakes are of varying size, not too big, and the names don’t necessarily signify anything as far as I know. The weather was pleasant and sunny and there were lot of people on the trail. Like many folks, I ate some packed lunch at the Emerald Lake and got my first ever glimpse of a marmot which was mingling among the folks spread out on the boulders.

From Emerald Lake I turned back the way I came until arriving at a fork which leads to Lake Haiyaha. It sits at some altitude so there is a decent upwards hike to get to it. For a first day this was a strenuous one for me though nothing compared to the one I did next day. As I was climbing up I could feel light dizziness for a few seconds but nothing too severe to stop me. Lake Haiyaha is absolutely worth the effort with its still, emerald-green glacial water amid the surrounding mountains. Sitting on the rocks, admiring the beauty of it, and feeling the closeness with nature can bring a sense of calm and peace in you that you don’t even realize how much you needed in your urban grind of life. 

After returning to my car, I drove to the Old Fall River Rd. This is about a 9–10-mile one way road leading up to the Alpine Visitor Center. It’s a slow drive through a very narrow and unpaved road with sharp switchback turns and winding through thick forest and mountains. On the way you can stop by to view Chasm falls. As you reach high altitude to the end you can see snowpack and what might be remnants of past glacial activity. The Alpine visitor center was closed by the time I reached at the top, so I just walked around outside. It was quite cold and windy, and I saw a few Elks grazing (first time I was seeing Elk). 

From the Alpine Visitor center, I got onto the Trail Ridge Rd to go to Estes Park where I was staying. Trail Ridge Rd is the highest continuous paved Rd in the US with the high point near Alpine Visitor Center at 12,183 ft. It was sunset time as I started the descent from top and it was a beautiful site with the setting sun blazing orange & red while also the full or almost full moon rising on other side. I stopped at a few places to take pictures and admire it all and at one point saw a herd of elk some distance away. Farther away and as it got darker, I saw a few elk at quite close distance with the bright moon in the background. 

Back to Estes Park after settling in the hotel I realized that most restaurants were already closed for the night. I called and found one named ‘ Cousin’s Bar’ open and decided to go there for dinner. Got a good beer and a burger though I was somewhat miffed that substituting a beef patty for chicken patty cost me extra $$ for what was already a pricey burger. Welcome to a touristy, western place! It was time to settle for the night as the next day I had an early day. 

Day 3 – Aug 30 - Rocky Mountain National Park

Today I had an entry pass to the RMNP from between 5-7 am. I had booked the pass days ahead and appreciate the system as a control mechanism for the visiting crowd. I entered the park at around 6 am and first went to Sprague Lake. Near parking lot, I saw a large antlered elk grazing. In the lake itself at some distance I saw a mamma moose with her baby. The sun was just rising, and it was quite peaceful sitting there and taking it all in. 

From there I headed to the Bear Lake parking lot. Today being so early I was able to easily get parking. I had planned to do the Sky Pond hike, a popular and challenging hike and just under ten miles out and back. One of the first interesting sites on the hike, about a mile or so from the trailhead,  is Alberta Falls which is a 30-feet waterfall. There were lot of people here enjoying the views of the falls. About two miles from here I arrived at The Loch. This is a beautiful subalpine lake surrounded by mountain peaks and pine forest. The hike goes quite a length along the lake from here and thereafter the hike starts getting strenuous with altitude kicking in. 

Around four miles from the trailhead I arrived at Timberline Falls. Before arriving at the falls, you must climb a series of rocky steps which can take your breath away due to the steep climb. The fall itself was basically trickling water at the time but the climb up is a scramble through the rocks, and you must be incredibly careful to avoid a fall and injury. Once I scrambled through the rocks I arrived at Lake of Glass, a beautiful alpine lake surrounded by many peaks and among them the Sharktooth. From here I basically had to follow a few people as the trail is sketchy. Just about ½ mi from Lake of Glass I arrived at Sky Pond. Like Lake of Glass this is also a site to withhold but there is also the sense of achievement in make it so far. I spend about 30 min or so here and then turned on my way back. Comparatively the hike downhill is easier, but you are fatigued, and the day had gotten warmer. By the time I reached the trailhead and the parking lot it was almost 2 pm or so. 

On my way back to the hotel I stopped for a late lunch/dinner at Barrel Beer and Rosa’s Tacos. It felt good to drink beer sitting outside, listening to the music and eat the delicious tacos. Once I reached the hotel and had showered and changed, I just lounged on a terrace like structure at the hotel, admiring the full moon rising over the mountains. 

Day 4 – Aug 31 – Grand Teton National Park

Next day I got up around 4 am as I had an 8 hr., drive to Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. I would have driven through the night to save daytime for sightseeing but from what I read on the FB groups it’s probably unsafe with the remote roads and elk/deer on the road. It was still dark when I left Estes Park and I drove very slowly to avoid running into any animal. By the time the sun came up I had picked up speed. Driving through Wyoming could sometimes be boring as there isn’t much to see around. By the time I reached Jackson, WY it was midafternoon. The first thing I did was to pick up bear spray, which I had booked online. It is very essential here if you want to hike as its grizzly bear country and especially for me being a solo hiker. 

Jackson is just outside Grand Teton NP, so it doesn’t take long to enter the park. As you enter the park you can see the Grand Teton peaks. I stopped at the Jenny Lake Visitor Center to browse for info and get my souvenir. I recommend doing these at all National Parks as you can learn a lot about the park. From there I took a boat ride across the Jenny Lake to the other side. A short hike from the boat landing and I arrived at Hidden Falls. There were lot of people on the trail and near the falls, so I was quite comfortable. I spend some time at the falls, took some photos and was on my way to Inspiration Point. This is a short but steep hike to a location above from where you can view the whole Jenny Lake and surroundings wooded area and mountains in the park. There are some good trails further from Inspiration Point, but I did not see a lot of people going and I didn’t feel safe going alone. I turned back, returned to the boat landing, and took the return boat. 

Then I drove to Chapel of Transfiguration, a small, old, and picturesque chapel. You can take beautiful photos from inside and outside the chapel with the Grand Tetons in the background. For a lot of locations in the park the Teton peaks are a major feature in the background. Further drive up I arrived at Mormon Row. These are some long abandoned barns and probably the most photographed location in the park, especially during sunrise or sunset. The barns with the Tetons in the background and good light conditions are indeed worth the visit and photos. Then a further drive ahead I arrived at Schwabacher Landing. This place has a natural pond/stream (or the Snake River) where the Tetons are reflected in the still water. I got some great pictures here. By this time, it was late evening and I turned back towards Jackson for night stay at a hostel. 

The accommodations are quite expensive in Jackson during peak season and the hostel was the only place at reasonable cost. This was my first time staying in a hostel and it was a pleasurable experience. I showered, then spent some time in the common lounge area chatting up with a young Indian techie guy. A girl had all her things locked up in the locker and had issue opening it so there was some drama around it. I helped her by letting her use my phone to call the service person, but it took some while. I then climbed up in a small bunk which was my bedroom for the night!

Day 5 – Sep 1 – Grand Teton and Yellowstone NP

I woke up around 5-5.30 am next morning, left the hostel and arrived at the Snake River Overlook location in the park. This location is great to view the sunrise. The overlook is right across the parking lot. You can see the snake river winding down below and the Tetons farther out in the distance with the plains and hillocks in between. There was a bright moon in the sky, and I saw a moose swim across the river. With binoculars I could see some bison grazing in the distance. As it started getting lighter with the sun coming up, the Tetons, the clouds in the sky  and the surroundings started lighting up with some great photo opportunity for me. I wasn’t the only by now and there were few others, some with excellent SLR zoom cameras. I was happy with my Samsung Galaxy photos though. 

From here I drove on to Oxbow Bend which is a very picturesque location with the iconic view of Mt. Moran’s reflection in the Snake River. By now it was bright and sunny. There were some deep pink wildflowers growing on the side of the river which, in the foreground and Mt. Moran in background with the river in between, looked beautiful with another set of great photos. From here I drove on to Signal Mountain, which is a road that drives up the mountain from where you can see far out in the distance. Next I did the Jenny Lake loop which is driving loop road around Jenny Lake. Didn’t find it much exciting here. I stopped at the nearby Spring Lake hoping to take a dip in the water but there weren’t any people around outside or in the water and many bear warning signs, so I decided to skip the dip. 

It was midafternoon now and I started driving towards Yellowstone National Park and to Wapiti in the West where I was staying. I entered Yellowstone through the South Entrance and drove on to West Thumb Geyser basic. There isn’t a lot in between, but near Lewis Lake I did see some geyser activity and steam flowing up in multiple places in the distance. I also passed the Continental Divide Sign. The West Thumb geyser basin was my first clear glimpse of Yellowstone key features of hot springs. There is a nice boardwalk which loops through the different geysers and as a first timer I was sure excited by it all. From here I drove towards Wapiti stopping by briefly at the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center. Wapiti is between Yellowstone East Entrance and the town of Cody and the place I had booked was a RV Park type place. I had made this my base as I was coming from South, but I could have chosen to stay outside of West Entrance as it has much more choices of accommodation. The drive from Wapiti to Yellowstone was 1.5-2 hrs. daily but I don’t regret it as it is a beautiful drive through the mountains. I arrived around 8 pm in the RV park and found my log cabin accommodation to be great, surrounded by the plains and mountains. I freshened, ate dinner (khichadi in a rice cooker, as there aren’t any eating options close by ), and went to sleep. Now I had three days’ worth of time to explore YNP.

Day 6 – Sep 2 – Yellowstone Lower Loop

Exploring Yellowstone is basically a figure of eight, with sites along the upper loop and lower loop. For the first full day I chose to explore the lower loop. I got up around 5 am, quickly got ready and drove towards the East Entrance and Fishing Bridge. At one point along the mountain road, I saw a few cars and upon stopping saw bighorn sheep clustered on nearby cliff. I also saw bison and elk along the road at various places. From Fishing bridge, I turned right and arrived at first sight of Mud Volcano area. Here you can see many mudpots. Mudpots, hot springs, geysers and fumaroles are the different geothermal features you see in Yellowstone. The good things in all these places are that there are boardwalks winding through these features for you to safely explore. In fact, leaving the boardwalk is outright dangerous and illegal. Further away from the Mud Pots I arrived at Hayden Valley. This is a place rich in wildlife and early in morning or evening is suitable time to view them. There are a few pullout locations along the road where you can stop and view down the lush green valley. I had new binoculars for this trip, and it was especially useful to see the animals or birds in distance. I should mention that there are many different, isolated geothermal features (some named, other not) that you will see along your drive, and I am mentioning only  a few key ones here.

Much further from Hayden Valley I arrived at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone where there are the Upper Falls and Lower Falls. On the South Rim Drive you will find viewing points for both Upper Falls and Lower Falls. The Upper Falls can be seen from the Upper Fall Viewing Area and the Lower Falls can be seen from Artist Point, which is stunning, with the falls and the winding river through the colorful canyon walls on either side. The North Rim Drive is a one-way drive that took me to the Lower Falls Lookout point, which is steep hike down wooden steps, offering excellent views of the Lower Falls. Further down the road I arrived at Inspiration Point which gives another good perspective of the canyon and the falls.

It was lunchtime and I arrived at the nearby Canyon Village Visitor center and decided to try the specialty here of Huckleberry and Wildberry Ice Cream which was delicious. Then I started driving towards the Old Faithful Geyser which is probably the most popular site here. In between there are lot more geysers basins (Norris Geyser Basin, Artist Paintpot, Upper/Mid/ Lower geyser basin) and this section of the park is the most crowded. I stopped by at Artist Paintpot for a peek before arriving at Old Faithful. This place has ample parking space and the approximate geyser eruption timings are displayed so you know how long your wait will be. I waited along in large semicircular crowd of people around the geyser eagerly waiting for the eruption. As predicted and on time the geyser stated spewing white steam at first and then there was this huge spray of water flowing upwards with a loud gushing noise . It’s lasted for more than a minute before scaling down. The gasp and noise from the crowd and the claps later are worth the experience. 

Behind the Old Faithful is the Upper Geyser Basin which can be explored walking on the boardwalks. There are many geysers to see, and you can easily spend 30-45 min or more exploring the entire basin. This concluded my day one in Yellowstone, but I wanted to capture the Cody Rodeo that evening as it was the last night of the season. It’s a long drive from Old faithful to Cody and I arrived just in time when the Rodeo was starting. I am glad I made it as this was a unique experience with local WY flavor for me. Until then I had only seen rodeo actions on TV in shows like Heartland and Yellowstone. But to see the performers on horses from young boys, girls, men, and women display their talents and compete in different events in the arena under the open evening sky was just wonderful. The show lasted about couple of hours, and I drove back to Wapiti to my cabin to sleep for the night. 

Day 7 – Sep 3 – Yellowstone Upper Loop

Today I wanted to explore more of the geyser area and then do the upper loop. I arrived first at the Old Faithful Lodge and Inn which is in the Old Faithful Geyser area. This is a quite impressive and massive wood / log structure with hotel rooms, restaurants, shops etc. and worth stopping by even if you are not staying in the lodge itself. Next I explored the biscuit basin in the Upper Geyser area which is closer to Old Faithful. It was cloudy with a light drizzle but luckily I had my raincoat which didn’t stop me from exploring. Further ahead I arrived at the Grand Prismatic Spring in the Middle Geyser area. This is known for its spectacular yellow, orange colors formed due to mineral deposits. There is a short hike to the Grand Prismatic Overlook from where you get a decent view of the entire round/oval shape. Due to cloudy weather the colors weren’t standing out as brightly as I have seen in some pictures, but it still looked quite beautiful. Further on I started on a hike to Fairy Falls which is about a three mile or so round trip through some thick pine forests to the Falls. I kept at close distance to other people/ groups as I didn’t want to be alone and have an encounter with a grizzly. It was raining lightly now and the hike, though quite flat and easy can make you nervous hiking alone, especially around sharp corners and thick forest. Luckily, I arrived at the falls and made in back to my car without any incident. The fall itself is not that much impressive or at least wasn’t at the time due to less water. 

I then wanted to explore the Norris Geyser basin, but it was crowded with no parking unless you park on the road at quite some distance, and I decided to skip it. Instead, I started on the upper loop driving towards Mammoth Springs. There isn’t much in between as far as sights go here. Mammoth springs area is again a boardwalk area to explore, and it is large area to walk though and explore the whole area. I walked around quite a bit, but I found this a little underwhelming in comparison with the geysers. From Mammoth Springs I drove towards Tower Fall/ Roosevelt area and down through Dunraven Pass back towards Wapiti. There are places like Antelope Valley and many overlooks on the way but not a lot of prominent sites on this upper loop section. The drives through the high mountains and the forests are an experience though whether you are listening to some good music in your vehicle or just driving around with windows rolled down catching the wind and keep your eyes open for the slightest glimpse of a wildlife activity. 

Day 8 – Sep 4 – Lamar Valley, Chief Joseph and Beartooth Hwy

I had viewed majority of the sites along both loops in Yellowstone. The major one remaining for me was Lamar Valley on the Northeast side. Lamar Valley is supposedly the best place to see wildlife in Yellowstone. So today I had decided to visit that section, entering through the NE Entrance. I got up early and drove west from Wapiti towards Cody and then got onto the Chief Joseph hwy. This highway connects Cody to the Bear Tooth Highway in the North. Both these highways are quite scenic, so I had decided to drive along on these since I had time. The drive, starting early dawn, was perfect however there are many open ranges along this Hwy so you need to be watchful of the cattle along or on the road. Once the Joseph Hwy meets Beartooth Hwy you need to drive West to enter Yellowstone. This section of the park, entering  through the Northeast Entrance is thickly forested with fog and mist covered mountains presenting a very scenic view. Entering Lamar Valley, the drive can become slow as I saw groups of people at different pullouts along the road with long binoculars and expecting to catch a glimpse of wildlife you stop as well. I also encountered ‘bison jams’ which is very typical here. I stopped at many places and scouted with my binoculars but other than a coyote did not get to see the famous residents of Yellowstone – the grizzly or the wolves. I may have spent about 2-3 hours in Lamar Valley driving up to the Tower Roosevelt junction and then turned back. 

My next destination was Red Lodge, Montana though it wasn’t the destination but the drive on the Beartooth Scenic highway that was my primary goal. This is dubbed one of the most beautiful roads in USA, but it is closed during the winter months due to heavy snow. Luckily, it was open when I was there, and the drive was spectacular going through different terrains and reaching altitudes of almost 11000 ft. There are numerous places to pull out and view the spectacular natural beauty. At Red Lodge I stopped by for lunch, the started driving back to Cody driving on a different route which took me through the Wind River Reservation. It’s hard to describe the experience on these drives as there aren’t exact named sites as such to pinpoint everywhere but the entire area and driving experience is something worth the experience. In fact, for anyone visiting Yellowstone I would recommend that they experience and enjoy these mountainous and scenic drives in and out of the park. 

Day 9 – Sep 5 – Return Back

This was my last day of the trip and nothing much exciting worth mentioning as I drove back the long drive to Denver to catch my flight back home. The only exciting thing (a bummer for me ) was a traffic ticket I got somewhere in rural Wyoming. Not much regrets though. Per my assessment Wyoming is at the same time the most underwhelming and most overwhelming state in the USA. 

South California Trip – March 2024

Links to all the photos and videos from the trip

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AuN85QtHHX9UPe8Q6

I was excited about this trip as it's the first time in 26 yrs in the US that I was visiting California. My plan was to arrive in Las Vegas, then do a clockwise loop covering three National Parks and part of the Pacific Coast Hwy up to Monterey/ Big Sur. After arriving in LV, I had an Indian lunch buffet and then headed towards the town of Twentynine Springs where I was staying. From there the North entrance to Joshua Tree National Park is close so that became my entry point. 

Day 1 - 3/24 -  Joshua Tree National Park

Since I was a bit under the weather I slept later than usually I do on these trips and had a great breakfast at John's Place. It was almost 9 am when I entered the park. My first stop was Skull Rock on Park Boulevard as it's one of the most visited location and parking could have become a hassle later.  

SKULL Rock is an amazing natural rock formation in shape of what the name suggests. Quite something. There is a short Discovery trail near it which isn't too hard. My second stop was SPLIT Rock. As the name suggest it's a huge rock which is split in two. Not as exciting as other visiting points. Then I backed up the road and went towards Pinto Basin Rd towards HEART and ARCH Rock. This is moderate trail, part flat ground and part through rocks. The Heart shaped rock is a photo favorite. The ARCH Rock could easily be missed but the trail through the rocks is exciting.  

From there I headed on the same road to Cholla Cactus garden. In JTNP two deserts meet, the Mojave Desert and Colorado desert. As you near the Cholla Cactus garden you suddenly notice the change in topography, from mostly Joshua trees to mostly Cholla Cactus shrubs. It is quite abrupt if you are noticing. There is a short trail in the garden that winds among the cactuses. Most of them had early blooms but it was still cold for full blooms. Just a little ahead is Ocotillo Patch named after the unique thorny, spiky trees they grow here. They have red/ pinkish blooms. I saw lot more Ocotillo trees/shrubs in other parts in my trips than I saw here. 

Then I headed back up to Park Boulevard Rd which is where most attractions are. Since I had already visited Skull Rock I went past it toward CAPS Rock. As the name suggests there is a huge cap like rock sitting atop huge boulders. There is short easy trail around it. On most of these trails there are plaques with great information about the flora, fauna, geology in this area and this byte sized info is worth a read. Then I visited Keys View which is basically a drive uphill and from a parking lot a short walk atop from where there is amazing view all over. On hazy days one may not be able to see far but luckily it was quite clear when I visited.  

My next stop was Hidden Valley trail which is amazing. It’s a bowl like area sitting in midst of huge rocky hills. You can walk an easy loop trail. This is favorite of rock climbers, and I saw lot of them going up or down making your heart churn. This trail is a must do. Next stop was Barker Dam trail. The trail is easy, but dam is just a tiny dam built by ranchers in old days. There is no more ranching here thanks to shortage of rainfall. 

Lastly I visited Hall of Horrors. This one disappointed me as there are no clear signs as to what to look for. I got couple of pictures of a slot canyon like formation but if there is more to it then I surely missed it.  

Day 2 - 3/25 – Anza Borrego State Park / San Diego

I left Twentynine Springs early to drive to San Diego. On the way I had a slight diversion to visit Anza Borrego State Park which is known for its wildflower blooms, and this was the right time of the year. The route took me through JTNP way past the Cholla Cactus garden. Part of it was state or county roads while part highway. I passed through Salton Sea and a place called Mecca. I saw a lot of agricultural activity in the area. Salton Sea has an interesting history that I Googled later. 

As I entered Anza Borrego Park I stopped at couple of places where there were crowd of people looking at a great display of mostly reddish pink wildflowers. A stroll and few pictures and I was on my way. The actual destination point of the park has a garden like feature with desert flowers and wildflowers that you can stroll through. It was interesting though some of the spectacular photo displays I have seen online was nowhere to be seen. Maybe it wasn’t time yet or had already passed. Yet, the segway was worth it. 

From thereon I proceeded to drive to San Diego. The first place I went to was Mission Beach which has ample public parking space. It was good to walk around on the beach, on a rock pier and seeing lot of surfers. The water was too cold for me to enter in. Then I proceeded to Cabrillo National Monument. This is kind of on a hill with a lighthouse from where you can see the sea all around and the city of San Diego spread wide across. On the way you pass a lot of war graves which is a sobering experience. You can also drive down closer to the shoreline and explore tide pools. However, it closes quite early in the day 4.30/5 pm and I was disappointed to not have time to explore. 

Later I checked into my hotel and for dinner decided to explore the Gaslamp Quarter area. Due to weekday, it wasn’t as crowded though finding parking was still a hassle. I walked around a bit and ate at a restaurant ‘La Puerta’ trying out some tacos with a margarita. Good food but expensive (guess most of CA is expensive for a Midwesterner). Back to hotel and it was time to turn in for the night. 

Day 3 - 3/26 – San Diego

Next day I went to breakfast at CAFÉ 222 in downtown. It was a place I had read about online. In these days of social media, where anybody and everybody is a travel reviewer you can get thousands of varied recommendations on food and other places to visit. This was one such place. I ordered a Blueberry Corn Muffin with butter and Coffee for $25, once again reminding me that CA is expensive. 

I then headed to Balboa Park in the city center. It’s a large urban park which has many museums and interesting things to explore. I had no definite plans to see anything in particular but when I entered and started strolling through the park I saw a large queue near the Japanese Garden of Friendship. I bought a day pass online which offers entry to 4 museums and got in line to enter the Japanese garden. It was worth the visit with beautifully sculpted gardens, ponds with fish and other features. The cherry trees section was exceptionally beautiful with 95% bloom (as per a display board). For anyone visiting Balboa Park I would recommend visiting this garden. Next I explored San Diego Institute of Arts museum. Having visited the Detroit Institute of Arts in my hometown this one seemed comparatively smaller in scope and exhibits. Air and Space Museum is another one I would recommend. The exhibits with models of beginning of flights, displays from World War I and II, commercial flights etc.  was very interesting and informative. Finally, I visited the Mingei museum with mostly contemporary art. In between I strolled through various gardens and buildings and the whole day was fulfilling. 

In the evening I met a friend’s son who recently came here from Pune to do his Masters at USC. We met at a local pizzeria and spent couple of hours just chatting up about college, student life, careers, and stuff. 

Day 4 - 3/27 – Pacific Coast Hwy/ Los Angelos

Leaving my hotel in morning I drove towards Dana Point which is where the Pacific Coast Hwy 1 begins. I have wanted to do this for a while. You may vision this as a typical highway where you can drive at high speed but in reality this is quite a busy road with towns, homes, shops, traffic lights along the way. While you are driving parallel along the Pacific Ocean you don’t always get a glimpse of it except occasionally. 

My first destination was Huntingtin Beach. It’s a nice beach, with a pier you can walk on and lot of surfers all around. The water was cold, so I didn’t swim in the water but did wade in knee deep. I spent about 1-1.5 hrs. here then moved on to my destination which was Los Angelos. I had to leave the PCH to go to LA and I arrived in early afternoon, with my first destination being the Hollywood Walk of Fame. It’s a typical downtown walk along the sidewalk except the stars all along the walk with names of movie folks. I saw a lot of recognizable names (Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Ronald Reagan, Liz Taylor) and many we don’t know. 

From there I headed to the Griffith Park and the Observatory. In the park I ate my packed lunch in one shade tree area and then went to the Observatory. Right from outside the observatory you can see the famous Hollywood Sign. Inside the observatory there is a lot to see around and learn about astronomy with general admission, but I did not have time to catch the paid shows/ movies. You can easily spend half a day or entire day here. From there I went to my hotel and just had carryout dinner from a nearby Thai restaurant. One interesting fact I saw in the restaurant was old Thai movie posters which looked exactly like old Hindi/ Indian movie posters from the 60s/70s. 

Day 5 - 3/28 – Monterey

Though I wanted to drive via Hwy 1 all the way to Monterey it wasn’t possible to do so as there was a stretch of road in between closed for construction. Hence the next day I drove through Malibu and Santa Barbara then took a detour through Solvang, San Luis Obispu to Monterey. The drive was fine but nothing worth stopping and seeing. My first stop after reaching Monterey though unplanned, was the 17-mile drive at Pebble Beach. This is a famous drive through lot of (expensive) residential area with multiple stops along the ocean. Some of stops which I found interesting were the Restless Sea, Bird Rock, Cypress Point Overlook, and the iconic Lone Cypress. There is also the famous golf course right along the sea and it was amusing to see couple of golfers taking a swing with the waves crashing in the background. After exiting Pebble Beach, I headed to my hotel in Seaside, Monterey. 

Day 6 - 3/29 – Big Sur

I got up early morning next day to drive south on the Hwy 1 in area known as Big Sur. One of my first stops was the Bixby Bridge, a photo op place. The high bridge and ocean below with crashing waves is indeed a great site. I took a few photos from location a bit farther from the bridge, but I was able to explore more and take more photos on my way back later in the afternoon. Further along the road there is a famous restaurant named Nepenthe with beautiful ocean view. I had checked the menu prices and found them exorbitantly high. I didn’t mind stopping along on one of the numerous stunning viewpoints along the road and eat a packed lunch in solitude. 

There are multiple State Parks all next to each other as you drive through along on this road – Garrapata SP, Andrew Molera SP, Pfeiffer Big Sur SP and Julia Pfeiffer Burns SP. I drove all the way to Julia Burns SP to McWay Falls. It’s a very short hike and you can see the falls with water falling onto a beach from a distance. I think there is a way to go up to the falls on the beach, but the road was closed due to some damage. A short driving distance away I went to Partington Cove which is a hike downhill to a cove (a small inlet or bay) where you can experience the crashing ocean waves up close. From there I drove all the way back to Point Lobos Natural Preserve, stopping along many times at different viewpoints of the ocean. 

At Point Lobos I hiked through what is known as Cypress Grove which winds through a cypress trees. At one point along where you can see the drop to the ocean, the wind was so fierce that it was hard to keep my balance. This is definitely a nice place to stroll through. From there I went to Pacific Grove, driving along on my way through Carmel by Sea. It was too crowded with no parking place and either way I wasn’t much interested in shopping or eating. By the time I reached my hotel it was raining heavily, and it rained through the night. The next day I left the area but came to know couple of days later that part of the Hwy 1 on Big Sur collapsed into the ocean, so the road was closed, and many tourists were made to leave/ escorted from the area and State Parks. Guess I was lucky to have experienced the drive and the views by just a nick of a time. 

Day 7 - 3/30 – Pinnacles National Park

This park is just about 1.5 hr. drive from Monterey. I arrived here by about 9.30 am. This isn’t a very popular park compared to some other NPs in California. The unique feature of this park is the soaring, wild condors as part of the California Condors recovery program. 

I entered though the East entrance and headed towards the Bear Gulch trailhead. I had to park at a distance and walk a bit to the trailhead. This trail leads you to the Bear Gulch Talus Cave. The cave was open (it is closed certain times of year based on Bat activity). The trail is quite flat and easy. The caves require you to have a flashlight as certain parts are quite dark. I had read ahead and hence carried a flashlight. I went some distance into the cave and then turned back. There are narrow stairs, dark compact places and heavy water rushing through in an indoor waterfall as it had rained earlier. After coming back to trailhead, I started on the Condor Gulch Trail. This could be a moderate 1.5/2-mile hike, or a strenuous longer 5/6-mile hike based on how far you want to go. I did the moderate hike until the Condor Gulch. With binoculars I was able to see couple of condors soaring high above and landing on some cliffs, but they were too far to get any good pics. 

On the way out I stopped at the camp store to get a park souvenir. Then I exited the park driving towards my next destination of Death Valley but stopping for the night in the town of Bakersfield. 

Day 8 - 3/31 – Death Valley National Park

I left Bakersfield after an early breakfast driving towards my next destination of Death Valley Park. Its little over 200 miles / 4.5 hrs. of drive. I drove South for some distance then turned direction driving Northeast. Essentially we are driving around the mountain range and the effect of rain shadow is very much visible here. The drive down south on the west side of mountain range is fertile, green region while drive North on the east side you see the barren land in the rain shadow eventually resulting in the desert of Death Valley. On the way I saw large patches of yellow wildflowers, in some places stretched out over long distance with snow peaked mountains in the far distance. I stopped at couple of such places to take photos. Past lunch time I entered Death Valley taking the cursory photo at the park entrance. 

My first stop after entering the park was at the Furnace Creek Visitor center. There are excellent displays here and lot of info about the park with its history, geography, and biological features. From there I proceeded to Zabriskie point. A short hike up from the parking lot here you can see around quite afar with a colorful terrain. Next I headed to Badwater Basin which is the lowest point in US. Typically, this is a just a flat land with salt deposits. However due to lot of rains here recently, there was almost a knee-deep water forming a large temporary lake, which is quite a rarity. Some distance away I stopped at Devil’s Golf Course which again is a large flat land with sharp salt crystals spread across. My next stop was Artist Drive where you drive through a series of colorful hillocks. The colors are due to different minerals and depending on the light conditions this is quite a picturesque area. Then I went back to Zabriskie point to see the sunset, but it was cloudy so couldn’t catch any sunset.  

Then I had to drive almost couple of hours back towards Panamint Springs where I had night accommodation at a ‘resort’. It was basically sleeping in a tent but there aren’t many places to stay here. Thankfully they had a restaurant where I could get some dinner. That night it rained heavily, which considering that I was in a place in the US where rain is very scarce, was a rare event. And I could feel the pain of it the next day. 

Day 9 - 4/1 – Death Valley National Park

I got up at first light the next day and started driving back towards the park to cover the rest of the sights I wanted to see before proceeding to Las Vegas to catch my flight the next day. As I started driving I realized the havoc the rain had caused. In many places there were gravel, large rocks and mud washed over the road making the drive not just slow but also tricky. I kept driving slowly, making way through though I was skeptical and worried of having a flat tire in the middle of nowhere with no way of communication to call for any help. At a high elevation pass I saw a young lady with a stalled car. I stopped to ask for any help and learned that she had driven over a large rock causing problems. The only help I could offer was to assure that I can tell someone at the next ranger station almost 20 miles away to send for any help. Thankfully there was a ranger car which just came by (they may have anticipated such issues and were patrolling is my guess) and the ranger offered to call for help for her. I hope she got by ok, but this is the hazardous part of traveling in such remote places.

Further down I encountered a much worse road situation and stopped to think over my options. It was risky driving over not knowing what lay further, while the situation going back was no better but at least known. I asked someone who had driven from the other side, and they said it was ok. So, I decided to take the risk and drove over a mess of rocks, mud, and sand. My luck must be strong as I was able to get through without issues and soon I was at the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. I have been to sand dunes in MI and CO, so I spent just a short time here not going much farther in the dunes. From there I went over to the ruins of Harmony Borax Works which was a commercial enterprise in the days back but long abandoned. Nothing much exciting except for the history of it. My last stop was the Golden Canyon Trail. This was a great trail winding through yellow/gold canyon walls on both sides until you reach a place with red rock canyon called Red Cathedral. I went a bit farther in the Red Cathedral area then turned back. By the time I was at the parking lot it was around 2 pm and I started my drive to Las Vegas for a night halt. 

In summary, Death Valley is spread across a vast area with a few interesting sites. It isn’t as awe inspiring as say Arches or Zion or Rocky Mountains but has its unique features . And being so close to Las Vegas it is worth at least a day trip if you are in the area.

Return Back 

4/2 – This was the end of my trip as I took the flight back from Las Vegas to Detroit. All went as planned so I was glad about the trip. Now that I have covered south California, I am excited to plan another trip soon to explore North California.