अंगणात पारिजातकाचा सडा पडे, कधी फुले वेचायला येशील इकडे (When will you come, to pick the flowers from my garden)
Sunday, June 23, 2024
Sunday, June 16, 2024
Rocky Mountain - Grand Teton - Yellowstone Trip - Summer 2023
Links to all the photos and videos from the trip
Colorado/ Rocky Mountains - https://photos.app.goo.gl/F3AE6FUrBn3wd8sG6
Grand Teton - Yellowstone - https://photos.app.goo.gl/b65vGFhUzusbteeX8
Planning
In the past 2-3 years and especially after Covid pandemic, like most people I also caught the travel bug. I was especially enamored by the beautiful and well-preserved National Parks and after visiting Arizona and all the parks in Utah, the Mighty West just beckoned me for more.
I still however had yet to visit Yellowstone, the ultimate National Park so to speak. It had also been almost a year since my mother’s cancer diagnosis and everything that comes with it as the primary caregiver. I had a good summer vacation with my son Malhar to Niagara and North England states, but I had a window of opportunity for a solo vacation around Labor Day weekend so decided to go ahead with this trip. Luckily, things fell in place, and I was able to visit my dream destination.
I should thank some of the FB groups I joined where I got lot of information of the places I planned to visit, either by reading about other people’s experiences or asking questions. www.earthtrekkers.com was also extremely helpful resource with their itineraries and useful info for various places.
Day 1 – Aug 28 – Garden of Gods
Since I could not leave my mother alone due to her health the plan was for her to stay with my nephew in OH. Hence I had booked my flights to Denver from Columbus. Mom and I drove early morning from MI to my nephew’s home and he then dropped me to the Columbus airport. By the time I arrived in Denver and took my rental car it was already past 4 pm. From there I drove to Colorado Springs.
Garden of Gods in Colorado Springs is a wonderful red rock natural landscape with some impressive formations. Compared to much larger Arches or Bryce Canyon National Parks in Utah this place has similar red rock natural features but much smaller in size (and somewhat underwhelming if you have seen the ones in Utah before). But if you are in the vicinity it is still worth a visit. One could easily spend half a day or an entire day here, but I only had about couple of hours at most. Luckily, it was the golden hour and as I drove through, stopping at a few places to view the beautiful landscape against the stunning colors in the sky, it truly felt as if I was in the Garden of Gods.
Day 2 – Aug 29 – Rocky Mountain National Park
The next day I had an entry pass booked ahead for the Rocky Mountain National Park with Bear Lake Road access from 10 am to noon. Hence I started early for the 3-hr. drive from Colorado Springs to RMNP. The drive isn’t bad except when near Denver which can slow down a bit. However, I was able to make it in time and enter the park. I had heard that the Bear Lake parking lot gets full early, hence I parked at the shuttle parking and decided to take the free park shuttle instead.
From the online FB groups, I had learned about altitude sickness and acclimatation and decided that the first day I will do some easy hikes before trying something more difficult with higher altitude. Hence I embarked on the lakes trail which includes Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, and Emerald Lake. This is just a moderate trail, with stunning views of the mountains and beautiful lakes. The lakes are of varying size, not too big, and the names don’t necessarily signify anything as far as I know. The weather was pleasant and sunny and there were lot of people on the trail. Like many folks, I ate some packed lunch at the Emerald Lake and got my first ever glimpse of a marmot which was mingling among the folks spread out on the boulders.
From Emerald Lake I turned back the way I came until arriving at a fork which leads to Lake Haiyaha. It sits at some altitude so there is a decent upwards hike to get to it. For a first day this was a strenuous one for me though nothing compared to the one I did next day. As I was climbing up I could feel light dizziness for a few seconds but nothing too severe to stop me. Lake Haiyaha is absolutely worth the effort with its still, emerald-green glacial water amid the surrounding mountains. Sitting on the rocks, admiring the beauty of it, and feeling the closeness with nature can bring a sense of calm and peace in you that you don’t even realize how much you needed in your urban grind of life.
After returning to my car, I drove to the Old Fall River Rd. This is about a 9–10-mile one way road leading up to the Alpine Visitor Center. It’s a slow drive through a very narrow and unpaved road with sharp switchback turns and winding through thick forest and mountains. On the way you can stop by to view Chasm falls. As you reach high altitude to the end you can see snowpack and what might be remnants of past glacial activity. The Alpine visitor center was closed by the time I reached at the top, so I just walked around outside. It was quite cold and windy, and I saw a few Elks grazing (first time I was seeing Elk).
From the Alpine Visitor center, I got onto the Trail Ridge Rd to go to Estes Park where I was staying. Trail Ridge Rd is the highest continuous paved Rd in the US with the high point near Alpine Visitor Center at 12,183 ft. It was sunset time as I started the descent from top and it was a beautiful site with the setting sun blazing orange & red while also the full or almost full moon rising on other side. I stopped at a few places to take pictures and admire it all and at one point saw a herd of elk some distance away. Farther away and as it got darker, I saw a few elk at quite close distance with the bright moon in the background.
Back to Estes Park after settling in the hotel I realized that most restaurants were already closed for the night. I called and found one named ‘ Cousin’s Bar’ open and decided to go there for dinner. Got a good beer and a burger though I was somewhat miffed that substituting a beef patty for chicken patty cost me extra $$ for what was already a pricey burger. Welcome to a touristy, western place! It was time to settle for the night as the next day I had an early day.
Day 3 – Aug 30 - Rocky Mountain National Park
Today I had an entry pass to the RMNP from between 5-7 am. I had booked the pass days ahead and appreciate the system as a control mechanism for the visiting crowd. I entered the park at around 6 am and first went to Sprague Lake. Near parking lot, I saw a large antlered elk grazing. In the lake itself at some distance I saw a mamma moose with her baby. The sun was just rising, and it was quite peaceful sitting there and taking it all in.
From there I headed to the Bear Lake parking lot. Today being so early I was able to easily get parking. I had planned to do the Sky Pond hike, a popular and challenging hike and just under ten miles out and back. One of the first interesting sites on the hike, about a mile or so from the trailhead, is Alberta Falls which is a 30-feet waterfall. There were lot of people here enjoying the views of the falls. About two miles from here I arrived at The Loch. This is a beautiful subalpine lake surrounded by mountain peaks and pine forest. The hike goes quite a length along the lake from here and thereafter the hike starts getting strenuous with altitude kicking in.
Around four miles from the trailhead I arrived at Timberline Falls. Before arriving at the falls, you must climb a series of rocky steps which can take your breath away due to the steep climb. The fall itself was basically trickling water at the time but the climb up is a scramble through the rocks, and you must be incredibly careful to avoid a fall and injury. Once I scrambled through the rocks I arrived at Lake of Glass, a beautiful alpine lake surrounded by many peaks and among them the Sharktooth. From here I basically had to follow a few people as the trail is sketchy. Just about ½ mi from Lake of Glass I arrived at Sky Pond. Like Lake of Glass this is also a site to withhold but there is also the sense of achievement in make it so far. I spend about 30 min or so here and then turned on my way back. Comparatively the hike downhill is easier, but you are fatigued, and the day had gotten warmer. By the time I reached the trailhead and the parking lot it was almost 2 pm or so.
On my way back to the hotel I stopped for a late lunch/dinner at Barrel Beer and Rosa’s Tacos. It felt good to drink beer sitting outside, listening to the music and eat the delicious tacos. Once I reached the hotel and had showered and changed, I just lounged on a terrace like structure at the hotel, admiring the full moon rising over the mountains.
Day 4 – Aug 31 – Grand Teton National Park
Next day I got up around 4 am as I had an 8 hr., drive to Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. I would have driven through the night to save daytime for sightseeing but from what I read on the FB groups it’s probably unsafe with the remote roads and elk/deer on the road. It was still dark when I left Estes Park and I drove very slowly to avoid running into any animal. By the time the sun came up I had picked up speed. Driving through Wyoming could sometimes be boring as there isn’t much to see around. By the time I reached Jackson, WY it was midafternoon. The first thing I did was to pick up bear spray, which I had booked online. It is very essential here if you want to hike as its grizzly bear country and especially for me being a solo hiker.
Jackson is just outside Grand Teton NP, so it doesn’t take long to enter the park. As you enter the park you can see the Grand Teton peaks. I stopped at the Jenny Lake Visitor Center to browse for info and get my souvenir. I recommend doing these at all National Parks as you can learn a lot about the park. From there I took a boat ride across the Jenny Lake to the other side. A short hike from the boat landing and I arrived at Hidden Falls. There were lot of people on the trail and near the falls, so I was quite comfortable. I spend some time at the falls, took some photos and was on my way to Inspiration Point. This is a short but steep hike to a location above from where you can view the whole Jenny Lake and surroundings wooded area and mountains in the park. There are some good trails further from Inspiration Point, but I did not see a lot of people going and I didn’t feel safe going alone. I turned back, returned to the boat landing, and took the return boat.
Then I drove to Chapel of Transfiguration, a small, old, and picturesque chapel. You can take beautiful photos from inside and outside the chapel with the Grand Tetons in the background. For a lot of locations in the park the Teton peaks are a major feature in the background. Further drive up I arrived at Mormon Row. These are some long abandoned barns and probably the most photographed location in the park, especially during sunrise or sunset. The barns with the Tetons in the background and good light conditions are indeed worth the visit and photos. Then a further drive ahead I arrived at Schwabacher Landing. This place has a natural pond/stream (or the Snake River) where the Tetons are reflected in the still water. I got some great pictures here. By this time, it was late evening and I turned back towards Jackson for night stay at a hostel.
The accommodations are quite expensive in Jackson during peak season and the hostel was the only place at reasonable cost. This was my first time staying in a hostel and it was a pleasurable experience. I showered, then spent some time in the common lounge area chatting up with a young Indian techie guy. A girl had all her things locked up in the locker and had issue opening it so there was some drama around it. I helped her by letting her use my phone to call the service person, but it took some while. I then climbed up in a small bunk which was my bedroom for the night!
Day 5 – Sep 1 – Grand Teton and Yellowstone NP
From here I drove on to Oxbow Bend which is a very picturesque location with the iconic view of Mt. Moran’s reflection in the Snake River. By now it was bright and sunny. There were some deep pink wildflowers growing on the side of the river which, in the foreground and Mt. Moran in background with the river in between, looked beautiful with another set of great photos. From here I drove on to Signal Mountain, which is a road that drives up the mountain from where you can see far out in the distance. Next I did the Jenny Lake loop which is driving loop road around Jenny Lake. Didn’t find it much exciting here. I stopped at the nearby Spring Lake hoping to take a dip in the water but there weren’t any people around outside or in the water and many bear warning signs, so I decided to skip the dip.
It was midafternoon now and I started driving towards Yellowstone National Park and to Wapiti in the West where I was staying. I entered Yellowstone through the South Entrance and drove on to West Thumb Geyser basic. There isn’t a lot in between, but near Lewis Lake I did see some geyser activity and steam flowing up in multiple places in the distance. I also passed the Continental Divide Sign. The West Thumb geyser basin was my first clear glimpse of Yellowstone key features of hot springs. There is a nice boardwalk which loops through the different geysers and as a first timer I was sure excited by it all. From here I drove towards Wapiti stopping by briefly at the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center. Wapiti is between Yellowstone East Entrance and the town of Cody and the place I had booked was a RV Park type place. I had made this my base as I was coming from South, but I could have chosen to stay outside of West Entrance as it has much more choices of accommodation. The drive from Wapiti to Yellowstone was 1.5-2 hrs. daily but I don’t regret it as it is a beautiful drive through the mountains. I arrived around 8 pm in the RV park and found my log cabin accommodation to be great, surrounded by the plains and mountains. I freshened, ate dinner (khichadi in a rice cooker, as there aren’t any eating options close by ), and went to sleep. Now I had three days’ worth of time to explore YNP.
Day 6 – Sep 2 – Yellowstone Lower Loop
Exploring Yellowstone is basically a figure of eight, with sites along the upper loop and lower loop. For the first full day I chose to explore the lower loop. I got up around 5 am, quickly got ready and drove towards the East Entrance and Fishing Bridge. At one point along the mountain road, I saw a few cars and upon stopping saw bighorn sheep clustered on nearby cliff. I also saw bison and elk along the road at various places. From Fishing bridge, I turned right and arrived at first sight of Mud Volcano area. Here you can see many mudpots. Mudpots, hot springs, geysers and fumaroles are the different geothermal features you see in Yellowstone. The good things in all these places are that there are boardwalks winding through these features for you to safely explore. In fact, leaving the boardwalk is outright dangerous and illegal. Further away from the Mud Pots I arrived at Hayden Valley. This is a place rich in wildlife and early in morning or evening is suitable time to view them. There are a few pullout locations along the road where you can stop and view down the lush green valley. I had new binoculars for this trip, and it was especially useful to see the animals or birds in distance. I should mention that there are many different, isolated geothermal features (some named, other not) that you will see along your drive, and I am mentioning only a few key ones here.
Much further from Hayden Valley I arrived at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone where there are the Upper Falls and Lower Falls. On the South Rim Drive you will find viewing points for both Upper Falls and Lower Falls. The Upper Falls can be seen from the Upper Fall Viewing Area and the Lower Falls can be seen from Artist Point, which is stunning, with the falls and the winding river through the colorful canyon walls on either side. The North Rim Drive is a one-way drive that took me to the Lower Falls Lookout point, which is steep hike down wooden steps, offering excellent views of the Lower Falls. Further down the road I arrived at Inspiration Point which gives another good perspective of the canyon and the falls.
It was lunchtime and I arrived at the nearby Canyon Village Visitor center and decided to try the specialty here of Huckleberry and Wildberry Ice Cream which was delicious. Then I started driving towards the Old Faithful Geyser which is probably the most popular site here. In between there are lot more geysers basins (Norris Geyser Basin, Artist Paintpot, Upper/Mid/ Lower geyser basin) and this section of the park is the most crowded. I stopped by at Artist Paintpot for a peek before arriving at Old Faithful. This place has ample parking space and the approximate geyser eruption timings are displayed so you know how long your wait will be. I waited along in large semicircular crowd of people around the geyser eagerly waiting for the eruption. As predicted and on time the geyser stated spewing white steam at first and then there was this huge spray of water flowing upwards with a loud gushing noise . It’s lasted for more than a minute before scaling down. The gasp and noise from the crowd and the claps later are worth the experience.
Behind the Old Faithful is the Upper Geyser Basin which can be explored walking on the boardwalks. There are many geysers to see, and you can easily spend 30-45 min or more exploring the entire basin. This concluded my day one in Yellowstone, but I wanted to capture the Cody Rodeo that evening as it was the last night of the season. It’s a long drive from Old faithful to Cody and I arrived just in time when the Rodeo was starting. I am glad I made it as this was a unique experience with local WY flavor for me. Until then I had only seen rodeo actions on TV in shows like Heartland and Yellowstone. But to see the performers on horses from young boys, girls, men, and women display their talents and compete in different events in the arena under the open evening sky was just wonderful. The show lasted about couple of hours, and I drove back to Wapiti to my cabin to sleep for the night.
Day 7 – Sep 3 – Yellowstone Upper Loop
Today I wanted to explore more of the geyser area and then do the upper loop. I arrived first at the Old Faithful Lodge and Inn which is in the Old Faithful Geyser area. This is a quite impressive and massive wood / log structure with hotel rooms, restaurants, shops etc. and worth stopping by even if you are not staying in the lodge itself. Next I explored the biscuit basin in the Upper Geyser area which is closer to Old Faithful. It was cloudy with a light drizzle but luckily I had my raincoat which didn’t stop me from exploring. Further ahead I arrived at the Grand Prismatic Spring in the Middle Geyser area. This is known for its spectacular yellow, orange colors formed due to mineral deposits. There is a short hike to the Grand Prismatic Overlook from where you get a decent view of the entire round/oval shape. Due to cloudy weather the colors weren’t standing out as brightly as I have seen in some pictures, but it still looked quite beautiful. Further on I started on a hike to Fairy Falls which is about a three mile or so round trip through some thick pine forests to the Falls. I kept at close distance to other people/ groups as I didn’t want to be alone and have an encounter with a grizzly. It was raining lightly now and the hike, though quite flat and easy can make you nervous hiking alone, especially around sharp corners and thick forest. Luckily, I arrived at the falls and made in back to my car without any incident. The fall itself is not that much impressive or at least wasn’t at the time due to less water.
I then wanted to explore the Norris Geyser basin, but it was crowded with no parking unless you park on the road at quite some distance, and I decided to skip it. Instead, I started on the upper loop driving towards Mammoth Springs. There isn’t much in between as far as sights go here. Mammoth springs area is again a boardwalk area to explore, and it is large area to walk though and explore the whole area. I walked around quite a bit, but I found this a little underwhelming in comparison with the geysers. From Mammoth Springs I drove towards Tower Fall/ Roosevelt area and down through Dunraven Pass back towards Wapiti. There are places like Antelope Valley and many overlooks on the way but not a lot of prominent sites on this upper loop section. The drives through the high mountains and the forests are an experience though whether you are listening to some good music in your vehicle or just driving around with windows rolled down catching the wind and keep your eyes open for the slightest glimpse of a wildlife activity.
Day 8 – Sep 4 – Lamar Valley, Chief Joseph and Beartooth Hwy
I had viewed majority of the sites along both loops in Yellowstone. The major one remaining for me was Lamar Valley on the Northeast side. Lamar Valley is supposedly the best place to see wildlife in Yellowstone. So today I had decided to visit that section, entering through the NE Entrance. I got up early and drove west from Wapiti towards Cody and then got onto the Chief Joseph hwy. This highway connects Cody to the Bear Tooth Highway in the North. Both these highways are quite scenic, so I had decided to drive along on these since I had time. The drive, starting early dawn, was perfect however there are many open ranges along this Hwy so you need to be watchful of the cattle along or on the road. Once the Joseph Hwy meets Beartooth Hwy you need to drive West to enter Yellowstone. This section of the park, entering through the Northeast Entrance is thickly forested with fog and mist covered mountains presenting a very scenic view. Entering Lamar Valley, the drive can become slow as I saw groups of people at different pullouts along the road with long binoculars and expecting to catch a glimpse of wildlife you stop as well. I also encountered ‘bison jams’ which is very typical here. I stopped at many places and scouted with my binoculars but other than a coyote did not get to see the famous residents of Yellowstone – the grizzly or the wolves. I may have spent about 2-3 hours in Lamar Valley driving up to the Tower Roosevelt junction and then turned back.
My next destination was Red Lodge, Montana though it wasn’t the destination but the drive on the Beartooth Scenic highway that was my primary goal. This is dubbed one of the most beautiful roads in USA, but it is closed during the winter months due to heavy snow. Luckily, it was open when I was there, and the drive was spectacular going through different terrains and reaching altitudes of almost 11000 ft. There are numerous places to pull out and view the spectacular natural beauty. At Red Lodge I stopped by for lunch, the started driving back to Cody driving on a different route which took me through the Wind River Reservation. It’s hard to describe the experience on these drives as there aren’t exact named sites as such to pinpoint everywhere but the entire area and driving experience is something worth the experience. In fact, for anyone visiting Yellowstone I would recommend that they experience and enjoy these mountainous and scenic drives in and out of the park.
Day 9 – Sep 5 – Return Back
This was my last day of the trip and nothing much exciting worth mentioning as I drove back the long drive to Denver to catch my flight back home. The only exciting thing (a bummer for me ) was a traffic ticket I got somewhere in rural Wyoming. Not much regrets though. Per my assessment Wyoming is at the same time the most underwhelming and most overwhelming state in the USA.
Saturday, June 1, 2024
South California Trip – March 2024
Links to all the photos and videos from the trip
https://photos.app.goo.gl/AuN85QtHHX9UPe8Q6
I was excited about this trip as it's the first time in 26 yrs in the US that I was visiting California. My plan was to arrive in Las Vegas, then do a clockwise loop covering three National Parks and part of the Pacific Coast Hwy up to Monterey/ Big Sur. After arriving in LV, I had an Indian lunch buffet and then headed towards the town of Twentynine Springs where I was staying. From there the North entrance to Joshua Tree National Park is close so that became my entry point.
Day 1 - 3/24 - Joshua Tree National Park
Since I was a bit under the weather I slept later than usually I do on these trips and had a great breakfast at John's Place. It was almost 9 am when I entered the park. My first stop was Skull Rock on Park Boulevard as it's one of the most visited location and parking could have become a hassle later.
SKULL Rock is an amazing natural rock formation in shape of what the name suggests. Quite something. There is a short Discovery trail near it which isn't too hard. My second stop was SPLIT Rock. As the name suggest it's a huge rock which is split in two. Not as exciting as other visiting points. Then I backed up the road and went towards Pinto Basin Rd towards HEART and ARCH Rock. This is moderate trail, part flat ground and part through rocks. The Heart shaped rock is a photo favorite. The ARCH Rock could easily be missed but the trail through the rocks is exciting.
From there I headed on the same road to Cholla Cactus garden. In JTNP two deserts meet, the Mojave Desert and Colorado desert. As you near the Cholla Cactus garden you suddenly notice the change in topography, from mostly Joshua trees to mostly Cholla Cactus shrubs. It is quite abrupt if you are noticing. There is a short trail in the garden that winds among the cactuses. Most of them had early blooms but it was still cold for full blooms. Just a little ahead is Ocotillo Patch named after the unique thorny, spiky trees they grow here. They have red/ pinkish blooms. I saw lot more Ocotillo trees/shrubs in other parts in my trips than I saw here.
Then I headed back up to Park Boulevard Rd which is where most attractions are. Since I had already visited Skull Rock I went past it toward CAPS Rock. As the name suggests there is a huge cap like rock sitting atop huge boulders. There is short easy trail around it. On most of these trails there are plaques with great information about the flora, fauna, geology in this area and this byte sized info is worth a read. Then I visited Keys View which is basically a drive uphill and from a parking lot a short walk atop from where there is amazing view all over. On hazy days one may not be able to see far but luckily it was quite clear when I visited.
My next stop was Hidden Valley trail which is amazing. It’s a bowl like area sitting in midst of huge rocky hills. You can walk an easy loop trail. This is favorite of rock climbers, and I saw lot of them going up or down making your heart churn. This trail is a must do. Next stop was Barker Dam trail. The trail is easy, but dam is just a tiny dam built by ranchers in old days. There is no more ranching here thanks to shortage of rainfall.
Lastly I visited
Hall of Horrors. This one disappointed me as there are no clear signs as to
what to look for. I got couple of pictures of a slot canyon like formation but
if there is more to it then I surely missed it.
Day 2 - 3/25 –
Anza Borrego State Park / San Diego
As I entered Anza Borrego Park I stopped at couple of places where there were crowd of people looking at a great display of mostly reddish pink wildflowers. A stroll and few pictures and I was on my way. The actual destination point of the park has a garden like feature with desert flowers and wildflowers that you can stroll through. It was interesting though some of the spectacular photo displays I have seen online was nowhere to be seen. Maybe it wasn’t time yet or had already passed. Yet, the segway was worth it.
From thereon I proceeded to drive to San Diego. The first place I went to was Mission Beach which has ample public parking space. It was good to walk around on the beach, on a rock pier and seeing lot of surfers. The water was too cold for me to enter in. Then I proceeded to Cabrillo National Monument. This is kind of on a hill with a lighthouse from where you can see the sea all around and the city of San Diego spread wide across. On the way you pass a lot of war graves which is a sobering experience. You can also drive down closer to the shoreline and explore tide pools. However, it closes quite early in the day 4.30/5 pm and I was disappointed to not have time to explore.
Later I checked
into my hotel and for dinner decided to explore the Gaslamp Quarter area. Due
to weekday, it wasn’t as crowded though finding parking was still a hassle. I
walked around a bit and ate at a restaurant ‘La Puerta’ trying out some tacos
with a margarita. Good food but expensive (guess most of CA is expensive for a
Midwesterner). Back to hotel and it was time to turn in for the night.
Day 3 - 3/26 –
San Diego
I then headed to Balboa Park in the city center. It’s a large urban park which has many museums and interesting things to explore. I had no definite plans to see anything in particular but when I entered and started strolling through the park I saw a large queue near the Japanese Garden of Friendship. I bought a day pass online which offers entry to 4 museums and got in line to enter the Japanese garden. It was worth the visit with beautifully sculpted gardens, ponds with fish and other features. The cherry trees section was exceptionally beautiful with 95% bloom (as per a display board). For anyone visiting Balboa Park I would recommend visiting this garden. Next I explored San Diego Institute of Arts museum. Having visited the Detroit Institute of Arts in my hometown this one seemed comparatively smaller in scope and exhibits. Air and Space Museum is another one I would recommend. The exhibits with models of beginning of flights, displays from World War I and II, commercial flights etc. was very interesting and informative. Finally, I visited the Mingei museum with mostly contemporary art. In between I strolled through various gardens and buildings and the whole day was fulfilling.
In the evening I met a friend’s son who recently came here from Pune to do his Masters at USC. We met at a local pizzeria and spent couple of hours just chatting up about college, student life, careers, and stuff.
Day 4 - 3/27 – Pacific Coast Hwy/ Los Angelos
Leaving my hotel in morning I drove towards Dana Point which is where the Pacific Coast Hwy 1 begins. I have wanted to do this for a while. You may vision this as a typical highway where you can drive at high speed but in reality this is quite a busy road with towns, homes, shops, traffic lights along the way. While you are driving parallel along the Pacific Ocean you don’t always get a glimpse of it except occasionally.My first destination was Huntingtin Beach. It’s a nice beach, with a pier you can walk on and lot of surfers all around. The water was cold, so I didn’t swim in the water but did wade in knee deep. I spent about 1-1.5 hrs. here then moved on to my destination which was Los Angelos. I had to leave the PCH to go to LA and I arrived in early afternoon, with my first destination being the Hollywood Walk of Fame. It’s a typical downtown walk along the sidewalk except the stars all along the walk with names of movie folks. I saw a lot of recognizable names (Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Ronald Reagan, Liz Taylor) and many we don’t know.
From there I headed to the Griffith Park and the Observatory. In the park I ate my packed lunch in one shade tree area and then went to the Observatory. Right from outside the observatory you can see the famous Hollywood Sign. Inside the observatory there is a lot to see around and learn about astronomy with general admission, but I did not have time to catch the paid shows/ movies. You can easily spend half a day or entire day here. From there I went to my hotel and just had carryout dinner from a nearby Thai restaurant. One interesting fact I saw in the restaurant was old Thai movie posters which looked exactly like old Hindi/ Indian movie posters from the 60s/70s.
Day 5 - 3/28 –
Monterey
Though I wanted to drive via Hwy 1 all the way to Monterey it wasn’t possible to do so as there was a stretch of road in between closed for construction. Hence the next day I drove through Malibu and Santa Barbara then took a detour through Solvang, San Luis Obispu to Monterey. The drive was fine but nothing worth stopping and seeing. My first stop after reaching Monterey though unplanned, was the 17-mile drive at Pebble Beach. This is a famous drive through lot of (expensive) residential area with multiple stops along the ocean. Some of stops which I found interesting were the Restless Sea, Bird Rock, Cypress Point Overlook, and the iconic Lone Cypress. There is also the famous golf course right along the sea and it was amusing to see couple of golfers taking a swing with the waves crashing in the background. After exiting Pebble Beach, I headed to my hotel in Seaside, Monterey.
Day 6 - 3/29 – Big
Sur
There are multiple State Parks all next to each other as you drive through along on this road – Garrapata SP, Andrew Molera SP, Pfeiffer Big Sur SP and Julia Pfeiffer Burns SP. I drove all the way to Julia Burns SP to McWay Falls. It’s a very short hike and you can see the falls with water falling onto a beach from a distance. I think there is a way to go up to the falls on the beach, but the road was closed due to some damage. A short driving distance away I went to Partington Cove which is a hike downhill to a cove (a small inlet or bay) where you can experience the crashing ocean waves up close. From there I drove all the way back to Point Lobos Natural Preserve, stopping along many times at different viewpoints of the ocean.
At Point Lobos I hiked through what is known as Cypress Grove which winds through a cypress trees. At one point along where you can see the drop to the ocean, the wind was so fierce that it was hard to keep my balance. This is definitely a nice place to stroll through. From there I went to Pacific Grove, driving along on my way through Carmel by Sea. It was too crowded with no parking place and either way I wasn’t much interested in shopping or eating. By the time I reached my hotel it was raining heavily, and it rained through the night. The next day I left the area but came to know couple of days later that part of the Hwy 1 on Big Sur collapsed into the ocean, so the road was closed, and many tourists were made to leave/ escorted from the area and State Parks. Guess I was lucky to have experienced the drive and the views by just a nick of a time.
Day 7 - 3/30 – Pinnacles National Park
I entered though the East entrance and headed towards the Bear Gulch trailhead. I had to park at a distance and walk a bit to the trailhead. This trail leads you to the Bear Gulch Talus Cave. The cave was open (it is closed certain times of year based on Bat activity). The trail is quite flat and easy. The caves require you to have a flashlight as certain parts are quite dark. I had read ahead and hence carried a flashlight. I went some distance into the cave and then turned back. There are narrow stairs, dark compact places and heavy water rushing through in an indoor waterfall as it had rained earlier. After coming back to trailhead, I started on the Condor Gulch Trail. This could be a moderate 1.5/2-mile hike, or a strenuous longer 5/6-mile hike based on how far you want to go. I did the moderate hike until the Condor Gulch. With binoculars I was able to see couple of condors soaring high above and landing on some cliffs, but they were too far to get any good pics.
On the way out I stopped at the camp store to get a park souvenir. Then I exited the park driving towards my next destination of Death Valley but stopping for the night in the town of Bakersfield.
Day 8 - 3/31 – Death Valley National Park
My first stop after entering the park was at the Furnace Creek Visitor center. There are excellent displays here and lot of info about the park with its history, geography, and biological features. From there I proceeded to Zabriskie point. A short hike up from the parking lot here you can see around quite afar with a colorful terrain. Next I headed to Badwater Basin which is the lowest point in US. Typically, this is a just a flat land with salt deposits. However due to lot of rains here recently, there was almost a knee-deep water forming a large temporary lake, which is quite a rarity. Some distance away I stopped at Devil’s Golf Course which again is a large flat land with sharp salt crystals spread across. My next stop was Artist Drive where you drive through a series of colorful hillocks. The colors are due to different minerals and depending on the light conditions this is quite a picturesque area. Then I went back to Zabriskie point to see the sunset, but it was cloudy so couldn’t catch any sunset.
Then I had to drive almost couple of hours back towards Panamint Springs where I had night accommodation at a ‘resort’. It was basically sleeping in a tent but there aren’t many places to stay here. Thankfully they had a restaurant where I could get some dinner. That night it rained heavily, which considering that I was in a place in the US where rain is very scarce, was a rare event. And I could feel the pain of it the next day.
Day 9 - 4/1 – Death
Valley National Park
I got up at first
light the next day and started driving back towards the park to cover the rest
of the sights I wanted to see before proceeding to Las Vegas to catch my flight
the next day. As I started driving I realized the havoc the rain had caused. In
many places there were gravel, large rocks and mud washed over the road making
the drive not just slow but also tricky. I kept driving slowly, making way
through though I was skeptical and worried of having a flat tire in the middle
of nowhere with no way of communication to call for any help. At a high
elevation pass I saw a young lady with a stalled car. I stopped to ask for any
help and learned that she had driven over a large rock causing problems. The
only help I could offer was to assure that I can tell someone at the next
ranger station almost 20 miles away to send for any help. Thankfully there was
a ranger car which just came by (they may have anticipated such issues and were
patrolling is my guess) and the ranger offered to call for help for her. I hope
she got by ok, but this is the hazardous part of traveling in such remote
places.
Further down I encountered a much worse road situation and stopped to think over my options. It was risky driving over not knowing what lay further, while the situation going back was no better but at least known. I asked someone who had driven from the other side, and they said it was ok. So, I decided to take the risk and drove over a mess of rocks, mud, and sand. My luck must be strong as I was able to get through without issues and soon I was at the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. I have been to sand dunes in MI and CO, so I spent just a short time here not going much farther in the dunes. From there I went over to the ruins of Harmony Borax Works which was a commercial enterprise in the days back but long abandoned. Nothing much exciting except for the history of it. My last stop was the Golden Canyon Trail. This was a great trail winding through yellow/gold canyon walls on both sides until you reach a place with red rock canyon called Red Cathedral. I went a bit farther in the Red Cathedral area then turned back. By the time I was at the parking lot it was around 2 pm and I started my drive to Las Vegas for a night halt.
In summary, Death Valley is spread across a vast area with a few interesting sites. It isn’t as awe inspiring as say Arches or Zion or Rocky Mountains but has its unique features . And being so close to Las Vegas it is worth at least a day trip if you are in the area.
Return Back
4/2 – This was the end of my trip as I took
the flight back from Las Vegas to Detroit. All went as planned so I was glad
about the trip. Now that I have covered south California, I am excited to plan
another trip soon to explore North California.
Saturday, May 4, 2024
Grief, Guilt and Relief – A Caregiver Dilemma
Hearing someone close to you being terminally ill is not an easy thing to digest. Even if it is your older parent who we know, on average, are closer to mortality than our younger selves. But especially because they are the ones who have been, in most cases, the stronger support pillars in our lives, it is harder to digest the fact that those pillars are now crumbling.
For all my life I had seen my mother (Aai) as a super energetic person. Whether it was cooking or any other work, the speed and efficiency of her work was always on high fuel. At one time she did home catering and while it was lot of demanding work she never got tired of it, doing it not because of any material need but just to keep herself engaged and busy in doing what she absolutely loved.
Since 2011 Aai had been staying with me here in US. In late 2022 she was diagnosed with CMML (Chronic Myelomonocytic Leukemia) which is a rare version of leukemia. The diagnosis led to series of treatment plans over 18-20 months which included medications, infusion chemo, radiation chemo, oral chemo medications but most importantly monthly blood transfusions due to significant drop in her hemoglobin levels. Each treatment caused severe weakness, fatigue, nausea, discomfort due to increased spleen size and the transfusions required frequent ER admits which are tiresome. One of the hardest parts was blood draws, which seemed countless. As the condition progressed causing her to lose weight, loss of muscles and the skin becoming flabby, it became harder to find proper veins for blood draws, sometimes requiring multiple pokes in various places and bruising.
Educating yourself as a patient or caregiver about the condition helps understand symptoms, treatment options with its pros and cons, progression of the disease and in general what to expect. A private FB CMML group with many patients and/or caregivers was very helpful in learning, sharing and openly talking about it all.
As a primary caregiver you live though your own version of the disease/ condition. In our case it was more so, since due to language and transportation reason, I had to be present for every Dr/hospital appt and answer any questions or provide info (Ninad, my nephew took her a few times when I was out of town). As a caregiver you don't just see what your loved one must go through all these treatments but are constantly watching them deteriorate physically and mentally while you are mostly helpless in making it all go away. There is also the juggling with other things in your own life - children, work, housework, social engagements. In fact, all aspects of your life are impacted. And while doing this you have to keep a strong demeanor and will to ensure you are doing the right things, whether it is talking with the doctors, nurses or supporting rest of your family deal with it.
While relatives and friends did offer help it was difficult to utilize it, especially for medical visits, as I knew the medical history, medications, symptoms etc. of what was going on while speaking with various medical staff. Hence it wasn't easy to substitute anyone. Thankfully I was able to take couple of vacation breaks with help from my nephew, niece & daughter who took care of Aai when I was away, but it always required careful planning.
While all this is going on it's easy to go through a series of emotions such as frustration, anger, helplessness, burden, grief, and guilt. There were times when I got frustrated or angry with Aai due to some conflicting demands during my work meetings or something not up to her expectation only to feel guilty about it later. There's also the fact that people who are fiercely independent in life are the worst patients when it comes to sickness related dependency.
As things got worse I also wished that things end sooner than later so that the suffering is not prolonged. I informed and advised her that the choice for continual treatment is hers to make and she can decide to opt out at any time. Neither the doctors, I nor anyone else can make the decision for her. Explained her about palliative care and hospice option. These are not easy things to discuss and while doing so there was always a feeling of guilt in my mind, thinking whether I was telling this for her own best interest (in this case less trauma and suffering) or a relief for myself from the work and stress of caregiving. This is a terrible dilemma for caregivers as it puts one in a confusing state of mind, making it harder to express your feelings to anyone.
During the last visit with the Oncologist on Apr 15th we made decision to stop any active cancer treatment and switch for home hospice care. When the Dr said 'you did an excellent job of taking care of her. She wouldn't have come this far without your support' it was sort of a relief for me. Based on history and frequency of blood transfusions the Dr had surmised she may survive 6-8 weeks. However, she expired on Apr 24, just about a week from making the hospice choice.
While I have a very rational view on subjects of mortality, quality of life, death with dignity etc. Aai was always heavily invested in being the Matriarch of our family. I had long conversations with her about detachments, letting go of things, stop worrying about any of us, but I know it wasn't easy for her. Ultimately though, based on how quickly everything happened, I could only surmise that our decision did not matter much. The decision was already made by fate, destiny or whatever you may call it. The only solace to mind is that she got enough time to bid farewell to everyone in her birthplace in Kerala, in Pune and here in Detroit and in her last moments she was at home surrounded by her loved ones.
Finally, my only word of advice to any caregivers is that do what you can and need to do for your loved ones. Each situation may be different, you may be close or far away, alone or with lot of help. Just do your best. At the same time take time for yourself, don’t hesitate to seek out for help, share what you are going through with relatives, friends and at workplace. And understand that going through a roller coaster of emotions is perfectly normal. Just take it one day at a time.
Suresh
5/3/2024
Friday, December 1, 2023
फुले वेचिता
माझ्या ब्लॉगचे नाव मी "सुरांगण" ठेवले यात फारशी कल्पकता होती असे नव्हे. मला 'मुक्तांगण' हा शब्द आवडतो तोच उसना घेऊन मी माझ्या नावाला जोडलं इतकेच. पण त्याखाली मी "अंगणात पारिजातकाचा सडा पडे, कधी फुले वेचायला येशील इकडे" ही ओळ टाकली. तीही उसनीच " घाल घाल पिंगा वाऱ्या" या गीतातील पण दोन तीन शब्दांची फेरफार करून ब्लॉगच्या नावाशी त्याची जुळणी केली. एकूण विचार हा की हा ब्लॉग हे संपूर्ण आंतरजालातील (internet) माझे हक्काचे असे अंगण आहे, माझे लिखाण परिजातकांच्या फुलांसारखे आहे आणि ती फुले वेचायला कुणी कधी येईल याची मी वाट पाहतोय.
Tuesday, November 28, 2023
Thursday, November 16, 2023
पतझड
पतझड का मौसम जो हैं
टेहनी पे लिपटी बेरीया
बस वोभी अब जाने को हैं
रंगों को समेट लो आखों मे
जाडों का रुखापन आने को हैं
Sunday, November 5, 2023
तेरा मेरा प्यार अमर
Lyrics📜 of old Hindi Lata - Shankar Jaikishen song 'Tera Mera Pyar Amar' sung 🎶 on a recent Malayalam song 'Njanum Neeyum' by Shreya Ghoshal. Somehow when I heard the new song, I automatically started humming it to the words of the old song.
Saturday, October 28, 2023
चांदरात
Saturday, June 3, 2023
तेरे बिना - येगं येगं
'येगं येगं विठाबाई ' या अभंगाच्या चालीवर रचलेले गीत
Sunday, April 16, 2023
अनादी युगाहूनी
सर्वपरिचित येसुदास यांचा मुलगा विजय येसुदास याचे एक मल्याळम गीत . मला खूप आवडले. त्यातले बरेच शब्द (अनादी, युग, पुरातन, दूर, नितांत, एकांत, हृदय, अग्नी, दाह, कोटी, किरण, भूमी, स्नेह, अति, गूढ, विकार, अविराम, प्रणय) मराठीत परिचित वाटले म्हणून ह्या चालीवरच त्यातले काही शब्द उसने घेत हे गीत बांधले.
अनंत क्षणातुनी तुला मी जाणितो
तरीही पुन्ह्याने कितीदा
तू भेटते, मजला नवी
कोणी नसतानाच भवती
भासते तू नितांत जवळी
पण सभोती सर्व असता
तुजविना मी एकांती
अति गूढता तुझ्यातील ही
दे सारुनी, ये समोरी
कोटी किरणें तुझ्या भोवती
रत्नहारासम झळकती
मी कसे पाहू तुला गे
नेत्र दिपल्यावाचूनी
Sunday, December 25, 2022
सांताची भेट
शेकोटीच्या जागेपाशी, बांधून ठेवले मोजे
दूध ठेवले पेल्यामध्ये, कुकीज केले ताजे
हळूच येऊन गेला सांता, घेऊन गेला मोजे
ठेऊन गेला चिट्ठी एक, होते जिथे मोजे
लिहिले होते चिट्ठीमध्ये, "ऐका, अहो राजे
कुणाच्या खांद्यावर, कुणाचे ओझे
फुकट भेटी वाटत फिरणे, वय नाही माझे
कष्ट करून घाम गाळ, होईल बरे तुझे
पुढल्या वर्षी ठेवणार नाहीस, म्हणून नेतो मोजे"
देऊन गेला धडा खरा, आभार आहेत त्याचे
सांताविना नाताळात फार, वाटेल उदासवाणे
भेट, बक्षीस काही नको, पण भेटीस नक्की येणे
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